I've never done a water pre soak before developing. I read it is so the negative s will "soak" in the developer. Is it better? I'd try it myself if I just could get those dang film hangers that are on back order from Calumet. Call me whateve r you want, I'll never give up the "darkroom".
Sorry. I tried to erase that last sentence. I just don't want to be looked at as a "dinasour". I don't want to feel ancient or out dated for doing my craft the traditional way. Whatever draws me to use a view camera, also does so with the traditional darkroom. I think this style of printing is a craft to be appreciated, just like the appreciation we give to the view camera. A medium format camera would make life a lot easier, but I choose to lug that awsome piece of 4x5 equipment around instead. Is it that I'm not evolving, and my darkroom will be near impossible to use at some point in my lifetime. Gee, I hope not.
I always did pre-soak my large-format negatives, the reason being that due to the large surface the negatives might streak and soaking makes the gelatine more receptive to the developer, at least , that's what I got told and I've never questioned the good results. I think that you are right to do so and I am interested in the answers too! About the cameras and the darkroom. This is precisely what I meant while answering somewhere else on the forum a entry which question the traditional darkroom to favour the digital one. I mean it is a contradiction to use a view camera and the do your printing on digital. I would be like to play medieval music on a sinthesizer which had been sampling the sound of the original instuments. The result can be interesting but the point is missed. regards
I generally pre-soak for about a minute when using T-max emulsions. I get consistently good results. One thing you might consider if you are using the Ilford Delta films is that they incorporate a built-in wetting agent that Ilford says eliminates the need for pre-soak. If you do pre-soak those films, you will alter your development time, or so I am led to believe!
Raven I always presoak both roll and sheet films for about 30 secs. to 1 min. The one time I didn't I got "air bells" and uneven development. Also this helps to bring the dev. tank to the same temp. as the developer solution. Regards, Trevor MONO-CRONE dinasour
I've read that pre-soaking film, regardless of the manufacturer will cause a change in the development time due to the fact that the water in the emulsion must be "replaced" by developer, and that can take up to one minute to happen.
As one who is getting close to pre-dating the dinosaur age, I have been presoak negs for about 40 years because the man who taught me to develop film said to. I have never found a reason not to. I believe it makes the developer even out. I also never have air bubbles and I have solved the air bubble problem for a lot of younger photographers by suggesting a pre-soak. I usually add a bit more time to the development to allow time for the developer to replace the water. Some films, such as the old Plus-X emulsion, almost required a water soak to prevent bubbles. The way I feel about it, it takes just a minute or two, so why not do it for insurance. I manage to do about every thing else to negs that can be done to damage them, but I never have an air bubble.
Very short presoaks should be avoided. If the water does not have a chance to soak the film evenly, it may cause uneven development. I have tested the difference between presoaked and non-presoaked negatives. I had to add about 15% to the development time with the presoaked negatives to get similar densities.
I am a pre-soaker...in addition to all the other reasons given, I feel it allows me to get the sheets organized and ready to slide into the tray of developer... -Dave
I presoak everything for 5 minutes. What's wrong with being a dinasour? Regards, Pat
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