best "lightweight" 8x10 camera in windy condition ?

[Don Hutton]

I'm with Scott on this. I read the obvious when you think about it but brilliant idea of carrying a golf umbrella (on this forum) and tried it and it really does the trick.

Yeah - it's really cute when the freak gust blows the umbrella into your rig and ensures that the whole thing gets dashed to the ground.... It helps, but is not without it's own considerations....

[Chris Strobel]

Calumet C-1 (black heavy one}, and a Ries A-100-2 tripod work for me

toyo II, Arca Fline, Sinar Norma, phillips compact2... ?

i have played in windy conditions with a canham (wood), and i'm less than satisfied...

[Kevin Crisp]

I guess I've avoided that cute situation. When it it really windy the umbrella goes over my shoulder with my body between the umbrella and the camera so that this does not happen. If the wind is strong enough to blow me over then maybe it is time to give it a rest.

[Mark Stahlke]

Since it's an 8x10 that we're talking about, I recommend (for windy conditions) a nice pint of chocolate stout, a leather armchair and a fire.

It's windy here right now. Can I come over?

Cheers,
Mark

[tim loose]

I've had success by adding weight to the camera like my camera case(backpack) it seems this helps to provide inertia to the system. 8x10's are large and the tighter the locking features the better.

[Kirk Gittings]

Read "dealing with wind"

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...t=dealing+wind

[paul stimac]

I owned a Wehman for about a month - sorry - there is no way that it is a stable camera. The single tripod hole is a major design flaw in my opinion. There is basically no "stable" way to use a lens of 450mm or more: once the front standard goes onto the "clamshell" - the front of the camera becomes cantilevered from the tripod mount and it's stability is simply appaling - unusable in any conditions other than perfect without an array of "stabilizer" help, such as a monopod or arm to help the front "unsupported"section. It may have 30 inches of bellows or whatever, but only the first 15 or so are really useable in the field. I sold it ASAP.
...

I have had the opposite experience. I regularly use a 1200mm on mine with good results. I have about the same keeper rate as with a calumet c-1. Maybe it’s your head/tripod combo? I had a ball head for a while and I had problems. Now I use a beefy bogen pan tilt head (3047) and tighten it down. The tripod I use is big and heavy also - (bogen 3033). The cantilever is an issue when aiming while extended with a heavy lens, though it's something you get used to. The cantilever is not a problem, however, when the head is tightened.

In addition to the c-1, I've also used a toyo m 8x10, a kodak master view 8x10, a Burke & James 8x10, and a Wista 8x10. The Wehman beat all these for stability in the wind with big lenses. I'd still be using the c-1 if the Wehman weren’t so steady.

[Vaughn]

Kirk, thanks for the link! The best advice I read was to include "Wind" in the title!

My bellows has a loop sewn in about a third of the way back that hooks onto the front standard - using it seems to help keep thing a little more stable in a breeze.

But the chocolate stout sounds like the best solution!

Vaughn

[Chris Strobel]

Paul, you weren't trying to use your C-1 on the 3047 head were you?If so no wonder your Wehman is more steady.I use a 3047 myself for my 4x5 and DSLR's, but would never dream of putting a C-1 on a 3047.

I have had the opposite experience. I regularly use a 1200mm on mine with good results. I have about the same keeper rate as with a calumet c-1. Maybe it’s your head/tripod combo? I had a ball head for a while and I had problems. Now I use a beefy bogen pan tilt head (3047) and tighten it down. The tripod I use is big and heavy also - (bogen 3033). The cantilever is an issue when aiming while extended with a heavy lens, though it's something you get used to. The cantilever is not a problem, however, when the head is tightened.

In addition to the c-1, I've also used a toyo m 8x10, a kodak master view 8x10, a Burke & James 8x10, and a Wista 8x10. The Wehman beat all these for stability in the wind with big lenses. I'd still be using the c-1 if the Wehman weren’t so steady.

[Don Hutton]

I have had the opposite experience. I regularly use a 1200mm on mine with good results. I have about the same keeper rate as with a calumet c-1. Maybe it’s your head/tripod combo? I had a ball head for a while and I had problems. Now I use a beefy bogen pan tilt head (3047) and tighten it down. The tripod I use is big and heavy also - (bogen 3033). The cantilever is an issue when aiming while extended with a heavy lens, though it's something you get used to. The cantilever is not a problem, however, when the head is tightened.

In addition to the c-1, I've also used a toyo m 8x10, a kodak master view 8x10, a Burke & James 8x10, and a Wista 8x10. The Wehman beat all these for stability in the wind with big lenses. I'd still be using the c-1 if the Wehman weren’t so steady.

Well, I tried it on a Gitzo 1548 with an Arca Swiss B2 head and plate. Absolutely the most stable rig I have ever used. The Wehamn sways about - it's caused by the thin aluminium plate of the clamshell bending all over the place whenever there is the slightest air movement - not from the tripod/head combination. Basically, it's like hanging a heavy lump at the end of a yard long piece of 1/16" ally plate. I'm happy you can get results with it. I thought it was very poor design and pretty "industrial" finish. With short lenses, the camera is OK. I'm astounded that you get "good results" on it with your 1200mm - I know no-one who manages consistently good results with that lens without another support under the front standard, even on cameras which are way more rigid than a Wehman and are sensibly designed with a tripod mount in the middle at full extension.