I'm new at this game so this may be shallow question. Suppose I expose 3 film h olders (6 sheets of film) in my used MPP field camera. I keep careful notes of each exposure. However, if I remove all 6 sheets of film for development, how do I keep track of the film to compare with my notes? I'v e tried to develop all 6 with one sheet turned 180 degrees, but this method seem s risky. Can you help?
Thanks, Bob Passsage
Unless you use Rightway holders which have a numbering system, you can't know which sheet is which. I don't like Rightway holders, by the way.
I solved this problem a while back by using my computer to print a small identification code onto a piece of overhead transparancy film and taped it into the flap. The film extends into the image area about 3 mm, which will imprint the code onto the picture. I still use this technique because it works pretty well for me. I'm hesitant to file my holders because it is permanent. I can change the little flap whenever I want to record different things. With a font of about 5 point, you can get a lot of info imprinted.
I number each exposure of each holder (Toyo holders have a spot to write the number, or use a piece of tape). I then record what typeof film is in each holder (always the same type for both shots) on a separate sheet of paper, and place the holders w/ the same type of film in labelled ziplock bags. For each composition, I'll shoot two shots at identical exposures(or always in pairs), the first shot being the odd number and the second the even. Since I usually have the first shot processed normal and the second pushed/pulled accordingly, after exposure, I only unload the odd sided shot for all the holders (ie, the first shot). After viewing the results, I submit the second exposure. This method gives you one optimal shot at the worst. If you happen to also carry a camera w/ cheap film (35mm or MF), you can always shoot a shot at the same exposure and have that film processed before the 4x5.
Greetings,
There are some interesting ideas in the previous posts, but I've been using a different method. I use a small pair od scissors and cut a tiny notch out of different corners to identify the sheets. This notch does not extend into the image area and can uniquely identify 16 sheets.
To do this, place your index finger (of the hand holding the sheet) on the point of one corner. Slide the open blaces of the scissors up the sheet until the flat part of the blade touches your index finger and snip. This sounds much more dangerous and complicated than it is. If you use care and a small pair of scissors you should have no problem. I've never scratched a sheet doing this.
To number 16 sheets uniquely, you will have to snip one, two, or three corners in different configurations and the first or last sheet will have no snips.
Regards,
"Graphmatic" backs have a little rotating stencil wheel that automatically numbers the sheets of film.
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