That was my decision after messing with stitching digital shots. I do think that there are some special issues with macro work that make stitching digital an interesting alternative. Esp if you get a jig of some kind to position the camera. I like the idea of messing with DOF with stitching.
Ed Richards
http://www.epr-art.com
Good morning Chris,
Sorry for the confusion. I was trying to equate capture area to film area/sensor area. The Canon 20D has a 15mm by 22.5mm capture area sensor size. So 12 images without overlap would give the dimensions I posted. However, with your non-scientific overlap, about all I could guess is smaller than 60mm by 67.5mm. In other words, your capture area was close to a frame of film from a 6x4.5 or maybe 6x6 medium format shot, if we guess overlap.
It is not an important factor, just my curiousity. In case you wonder why I am curious about that, it is a way for me to quantify comparisons. According to DPReview and several other websites site, outright resolution (not file size) of the Canon 20D is in the range of 50 to 55 lp/mm. So your entire image would have that optical resolution limit across the frame. A single piece of film would require a lens/film/scanner combined resolution near that on a medium format camera to equal 50 to 55 lp/mm; not impossible, though tough to accomplish.
I have seen some very nice prints from a friend of mine that has an interesting way of using his Nikon D2X. He stands and pans, then stitches the resulting frames. This is done handheld, and without a tripod. Even if the results could technically be better with using a tripod and carefully setting overlap, the images are still nice to view with the simpler method he uses.
Ciao!
Gordon Moat
A G Studio
Very nice image, Chris. If you were to stick with this, you would find the Photoshop time would decrease significantly with experience (there's alearning curve just like with most things photographic). For minor alignment issues the free transform tool (in skew, warp, or perspecitive mode) would eliminate the cutting and pasting that you did. Your results are quie impressive for a 1st timer.
Hey Gordon,
The overlap is necessary to ensure there would be no gaps in stitching and it also provides a safety margin for local corrections. Typically, it should be somewhere in the 20% to 30% area. With the proper rig, such as paralax-correcting tripod pano head, that could be reduced down to maybe 10%, but not everybody has them.
I took these two panoramas using a Canon digital P&S as a quick note for the future LF shoot when the time and wheather allows. It was all done completely handheld, as JPGs (so not nearly as many post capabilities as with RAW), auto evertything and then stitched manually in CS2. The important thing is to keep it as steady and level as you can, so you want to plant your feet, extend your arms and do not change anything between the shots except rotate your torso around your hips. Of course, center your stance to the middle of the future panorama and start at one end and move sequentially to the other. It's not all that hard for quick takes, but if you want more precise and predictable results with lest post processing, a good, stable setup helps a lot, as well as good planning.
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