Toho Shimo FC-45X

[naturephoto1]

Hi All,

I plan on ordering the Toho Shimo FC-45X from Badger Graphics in about a week. I have read through Kerry Thalmann's review of this camera many times and also reviewed many of the discussions of the camera here on this Forum and elsewhere on the web.

Presently my 4 X 5 Camera is a Linhof Technikardan 45S. I plan on continuing to use the camera as my main 4 X 5 but intend to use the Toho as my long hiking, travel, and backpacking camera. I plan on making the modifications to the camera as per Kerry which include the removal of the folding hood (use foam core as a GG protector) and remove the mounting block and replace it with a Really Right Stuff QR for my Arca Type QR. I spoke with RRS about a plate that would fit the camera, but the plate that Kerry used has been discontinued. If anyone knows what plate to use, I would appreciate it so that I can have the camera and the plate arrive at about the same time otherwise, I will have to check the camera, discuss the dimensions with RRS, order the part and await its arrival.

Additionally, at least to begin with, I intend to try one of Dave Parker's Satin Snow GG to replace the stock GG rather than make the big investment in a Maxwell screen.

From my reading here and elsewhere, I have gathered that the camera does not necessarily square perfectly and there is some concern about that. I also know that some of you have installed levels for setting up and squaring the camera.

I would appreciate any input and insight that you can give me regarding the use of the camera, its shortcomings, its strengths, limitations, etc. I know that I am also going to have to get used to the fact that the camera breaks down into 2 pieces for transport and to remove and switch the lens and film brackets for switching from horizontal to vertical. I will have to relearn using tilts and swings of the central type to the base type when switching from my Technikardan to the Toho. I am aware that the camera has a fixed bellows (the Eccentric Lens Panel is available for very wide angle lenses). I am also aware that the camera does not have a universal back and that reducing backs have to slide under the spring loaded film back (and my Horseman 6 X 12 back would need to be modified).

Thanks all.

Rich

[Ron Marshall]

I have had the Toho for about a year and am perfectly satisfied with it.

The base that the RRS plate replaces is not that heavy and can be used until you find a plate. I found one used on Ebay. The Satin Snow is a good idea.

I have not measured to see if the standards are parallel when the movements are zeroed, but I have not noticed any out of focus areas on the GG or my negs.

It took a little adjustment for me from my Sinar, but now that I am used to it I find it as easy to use as the Sinar. I use my 450mm on it with an extender board.

Enjoy the freedom on the trail.

[Harley Goldman]

I have used my Toho for a couple of years. Like you, it is my second camera (Arca Swiss is my main). I replaced the glass with the Maxwell and really like it. I have never used the Satin Snow, so I can't compare. I use a generic QR place on the bottom and it works just fine. Take your time finding a plate. The base will work just fine until you find something. Like Ron, I use lenses up to a 450mm with a tophat board (Ebony with two sections and a homemade baffle to cut down on bounced light). It works fine with my 80mm too. It is a great little camera! I very much enjoy using it.

[Anthony Lewis]

I have a Toho and am very happy with it. I use it as a backpacking camera and for that it is perfect. I use lens from 80mm to 450mm with no problems. I put the Schneider 47mm on it, and it did focus, but due to standards not perfectly parallel on the indent positions the shots were unsatisfactory. But using the 47mm on this camera is really pushing the limits. I've had a couple of minor problems. The rear standard would not lock tight. It was returned to Japan and came back perfect. Maybe a one off thing. I fitted a Maxwell screen which is brilliant. I highly recommend it. However i was originally supplied with the wrong size spacers. These were very minor problmes and easily fixed at no cost.

I find changing from portrait to landscape very easy once your've done it a couple of times. I bought a Sinar F2 for outdoor use but ended up not taking many shots as it did not backpack very well. With the Toho I use it all the time. You can have the highest spec camera in the world, but if it does not backpack then you end up staying at home. I very highly recommend this camera because now i am out there taking shots which is what I wanted to do all the time. Buy it!!

[Leonard Evens]

Since I've posted pretty often about my Toho FC-45X, you've probably read most everything I've had to say on the matter, so I don't know if I need to add much more.

I think I was one of the first to raise the issue of lack of parallelism for the standards in the detent positions, so perhaps I should say that you needn't worry too much about this.. I am somewhat of a stickler for getting things right, and I often notice things other people would ignore. My guess is that the Toho is no worse in this regard than many other view cameras. The problem is basically that there is a small amount of play in the detent positions and that can put the standards slightly off. I first noticed the problem when using a 75 mm lens photographing a building facade. It is not usually an issue even for my 90 mm lens. And in any case, it is easy enough to adjust. Once the standards are set to parallel, it is my experience that they stay that way until the next time you use a tilt or swing, even if you take the camera apart for transport.

The most annoying thing about the Toho, from my point of view, is that the knob for locking the tilt angle on the front standard can hit the bellows on rises, and that can limit the amount of rise for wide angle lenses more than necessary. But I now use the eccentric lensboard, so I can get as much rise as my wide angle lenses can accomodate.

The default gg is not bad, but my Maxwell screen is a real pleasure to use.

One point I don't think I've raised before is that the column for adjusting rise/fall on the front standard can sometimes become sticky and also it can slip unexpectedly, although this has never happened during an exposure. It may just be a slight defect in my particular camera. I tried using oil or lithium grease to deal with this, but eventually I found that the best solution is just to clean the column regularly.

I also haven't been able to figure out which RRS bracket would work. So let us know if you find out which one to use. But I find the support that comes with the camera works well. Using a bracket would mainly save space during transport and it would also reduce the weight slightly.

You might look at my essay at
http://www.math.northwestern.edu/~le.../dof_essay.pdf
to see how to add a scale to the focusing knob. That allows for much finer control when using focus spread methods for focusing and determining f-stop.

[Ron Marshall]

Thank-you Leonard for the information on your homepage, very interesting.

My front rise is not sticky, but is prone to slip usless locked down tightly.

[Harley Goldman]

Ditto on my front rise. It does not stick, but if not carefully tightened, it can slide.

[Leonard Evens]

Ditto on my front rise. It does not stick, but if not carefully tightened, it can slide.

My experience has been that the slipping is also fixed, at least for a while, by cleaning the post.

[naturephoto1]

Thanks for the input so far guys.

For those that have the camera, can you confirm the size (1/4 20???) of the thread for the screw (s) holding the mounting block onto the rail. Are there 2 screws and the spacing? Also, which way do the screws enter the mounting block; that is are they going in from the top from the rail or from the bottom through the mounting block. Also, how do the screws screw into the rail? The reasons for the questions revolve around the proper RRS mounting plate. We think that we know the one (or one of) the proper plates. But this information would just about confirm our suspicions.

Thanks very much.

Rich

[naturephoto1]

Well, I've gone and done it. I ordered the Toho FC-45X from Bager Graphic this morning. It will be going out tomorrow and will arrive next week. After discussions with RRS, information provided from Ron Marshall, and Kerry Thalmann's photos and description, we have come to the conclusion that an MPR-73 1/4" should work on the camera. This is one of their new RRS Multipurpose rails that allows the sliding of two 1/4" -20 screws in place along a slot. This was ordered yesterday. I will confirm fit upon arrival of the camera and the QR plate. Also at Leonard's suggestion, I have an adhesive backed metric metal tape on order to afix to the camera.

I will call Dave Parker and order a Satin Snow GG soon after the arrival of the camera.

I will keep you posted on the camera, my comments, and reactions to its capabilities, features, etc.

Thanks for the help.

Rich