Last edited by Ken Lee; 23-Feb-2011 at 05:14.
EFKE 50, HC110, N+1
Unknown Petzval Len
Love the richness of the tones there Jack.
Optar 135mm f/4.7 T-Max 100 4x5 developed in T-Max for 7 minutes:
Plus-X 125 4x5 shot @ 100, this film expired in 1987:
I still need to get the hang of rotary development.
Schneider Xenar 150mm, f/5.6, 1/30.
Hier one of my first polaroids 3x4. Xenar 150 4.5 in a Polaroid 900 conveted cam. Handhold
Lambis Stratoudakis
www.apneaimages.com/blog
Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Ebony SV45 Ti + Carl Zeiss 135mm f/3.5 T* @ f/3.5
Yesterday, I finished rebuilding a Packard shutter and installed it in an 8x10 Kodak 2D. This morning I exposed 8x10 film for the first time. I exposed 4 negatives and developed them. The negatives were drying at the time this was written.
By inspection, it appears that negatives came out great except for a tight head shot that is blurry. This tight head shot was shot wide open at f/4.5 with 360mm Xenar and the exposure was 10 seconds.
Question: For a tight head shots, shot wide open, how long of an exposure can living subject be expected to hold, i.e., for this shallow depth of field, do I need to be using a strobe lighting to "freeze" the my subject?
For a ten second exposure you have a few choices: You can screw the subject's ears to the wall, you can use one of those ancient studio torture devices to hold the head still, or, you can use a strobe. Most people can't hold absolutely still for ten seconds. if it requires ten seconds in ambient light you should be able to use open and shut flash. No sync required.
I've purchased one of these, it's a 155mm f1.2 multi-coated triplet, about 6 inches across that should easily cover 4x5. http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l13001.html
We'll see how it goes when it arrives! Gotta figure the best way to mount it, being 6 inches across and weighing 5 pounds, haha!
Daniel Buck - 3d VFX artist
3d work: DanielBuck.net
photography: 404Photography.net - BuckshotsBlog.com
Daniel,
please post some pictures with it, wide open of course
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