Time Savers in the Field

[Drew Bedo]

I find that a Grafmatic in good condition allows for repete or follow-up shots without leaving the back of the camea. "Chunk-chunk" and you are set.

[Kirk Gittings]

I was reminded of this by something I said in another thread.

I work quickly, chasing fleeting light, and need to keep things simple or I make mistakes. One thing I do with my 4x5 field camera kit, is to make sure I always have more lens than bellows. That is when using extreme rises say, I want to run out of bellows movement before I run out of lens coverage. That way I never have to worry about fall off in lens coverage. All my field lenses will cover 8x10 from my 90mm to my 305. KISS

[JW Dewdney]

The biggest time saver I've ever found, apart from using a Sinar (which, arguably, is much more a studio or 'location' camera) is using a mirror reflex unit - gimmicky as though people may think they are... it frees up the concentration for other things. I'm 'all about' making things easy so you can concentrate on the hard stuff, like making a killer image.

This weekend - I think I'm going to start experimenting with lashing the complete camera to my roof-rack.... (crossing my fingers!). It's just too big, when fully set up, to be putting it in the back seat or in the rear hatch of the cherokee, especially with those long gitzo legs... ugh.

[Jim Jirka]

To me all light is good light. Without it photography would be kinda bland, like unprocessed film.

So since I make images in all types of lighting, being somewhere at the exact moment is not critical to me.

[Jim Rice]

Kirk, I'm sure I can't afford it, but what 90 covers 8x10?

[Ole Tjugen]

Jim, since that needs more than 120 degrees image angle there's really only one candidate: Goerz Hypergon.

[neil poulsen]

I have a book I built using a small sized day planner. It has DOF tables, aperture adjustments for close focus, shutter corrections in terms of stops for each lens at each speed, reciprocity corrections for polaroid versus each film with which I might be shooting, etc.

In all cases, calculations have been made in advance. For example, if I need an aperture correction for bellows expansion, my table gives the correction in terms of a predetermined measurement that I make between the front and rear standard.

DOF is the same way. I measure the same predetermined distance on my camera, and look up the DOF based on this measurement, the lens, and the aperture. So, no measuring the distance to the object being photographed. Just a simple look up from the camera location. My DOF tables also work for close distances. Found a good formula in an old book.

It took me awhile to make all the calculations for each lens-shutter-aperture combination, and the book has quite a few pages. But, it shortens the process in the field. When it's needed, it comes in handy.

Another time and space saver. I mounted one of the old MC bayonet lens adaptors onto a recessed lensboard for my camera. I use foam with holes in my back pack, so that mounting lenses on the camera takes about 10 seconds. No wrap to deal with. I used plastic to build the boards that fit into the bayonet mount, and they're smaller than Linhof Technika boards.

Never thought of having a separate shutter release for each lens. Great idea. Sometimes, one can find shutter releases at swap meets for a dollar or so.

[Ed K.]

So many, many good ones already.

Planning ahead, knowing sun/moon position, tides, wind predictions and general patterns for the area. Increase your odds before you even try by selecting optimal times of year for what you want (obviously, jobs don't often allow this).

A really good, low-profile quick release, such as those designed for video cameras is an incredible timesaver. The video ones have a safety catch, a lock down that screws in with just half a turn, and they add very, very little height to the rig plus work better than the typical Manfrotto style plate that wobbles after it's connected. The 8x10 rides with a seatbelt on, the pod goes on the floor halfway extended. Snap, click, ready.

A Linhof zoom finder instead of switching lenses if unsure about a lens. Fits in coat pocket. Having one handy is, of course, the best way to not need one at all.

A tube style darkcloth with button holes to hook on to the camera (well, on a Dorff this works..)

A second camera (4x5 instead of 8x10), set up for quick shooting, with a generally favored lens for conditions, but perhaps different (wide / long) than the
first 8x10 choice.

Go alone. More productive photography seems to happen that way.

If car-based, use a large foam lined Pelican for lenses. Waterproof, dustproof, keeps them all laid out and ready. Have areas for filters inside with small ziplocks for quickly putting them back if in a hurry.

Spare cable releases not only where they should be, but in the glove box and side pockets, etc.

Bring less stuff.

If distracted by someone keeping you company, (not following the "alone" rule), give them a 6MP digital camera. If you don't know them, just stay busy and give the "stop sign and shhhhh, quiet gesture", then keep at it.

If it's really too late, just watch, enjoy and keep one of those great images in your head.

Label things well. Keep exposed holders in a separate compartment even though you know which way to flip the dark slide on the way in.

If the equipment is new, shoot it around town a lot before going far afield with it.

Reading glasses, pouches, all good. Cargo pants can be quite good as also a barn coat with nice big pockets for spot meter. Keep loupe on lanyard around neck anyway. If camera takes too long for the type of work, take a more simple one next time, especially if being in a different position makes up for it. A Readyload or Quickload pouch with dividers is easily sewn up - we did this quite a while back and it's a great help. Don't put tape over the dark slides to label things when using film holders. Go back after shooting to mark the separated exposed holders or 'loads using a roll of "exposed" tape instead of those stupid little labels if you need to. Use a combination spot and incident meter instead of two, but keep a spare someplace in the car.

If you're pro, bring your well-trained assistant who, after watching the master work, is probably better at anticipating the needed stuff than the master.

If you have a plan, try to stick with it.

If all else fails, enjoy the 6MP digital photos your friend took with a camera that cost 1/10th what some of your lenses cost.

Have faith, don't dawdle, worry less. Do certain things the same way, in the same order (lens caps, initial setup drill, leveling first). Worry too much and you'll get boned by that, be careless and well, there goes another sheet down the drain. If you've got 30 years of it - it ought to be darned fast and darned good. It probably is. Being overly concerned slows it down and blocks seeing.

Stay another day or two. Chances are good that the something else magical might happen again (special events, sports, etc. excluded). Go back again. Adapt to the new situation. Stay later after the magic, who knows, there could be some other wild night magic.

And if you miss it completely, console yourself thinking how many of the ones you "got" weren't actually all that great, and well, how many of the ones you didn't think were that great were really terrific. Keep that great image in your head, it's probably better quality there than any print; use it as fuel to keep you going. After all, if everything always went perfectly it would be ideal for business, but pretty dull for an artist. Be glad that sometimes one gets away even from great photogs - at least you know that no single person can really corner the market. Your day will come at another time.

[David Karp]

This is a great thread. It keeps coming up and I have not had a chance to read it until tonight! Thanks everyone. Here are a few additions:

I keep my lenses (all on Technika-type boards) in plastic index card cases that have foam rubber on each end and in the middle. I can carry two lenses in each case. Each case is marked on top and the sides with the focal lengths in the case. They are easy to find, and to pull out the lens.

My Redwing pack is always loaded the same way so it is easy to find everything even though the bag is not divided like a photo bag.

I have filter factor cards, an f/stop focusing table (like the one shown in this article: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/fstop.html), and reciprocity characteristic cards that I made on the computer with Avery perforated card stock. They are laminated with Avery self-adhesive lamination sheets. These really help a lot. The filter factor cards cover all of the filters I own. The yellow 8, 12, and 15 are easy. I have those memorized. The card is great for all the ones that I rarely use. The reciprocity card even has information for TMX, which I don't use, on the back just in case I run out of film on a trip and that is what I can get my hands on. I have several of these in my bag and carry them in my shirt or jacket pocket. I keep meaning to attach a set to my tripod so that I never have to look for them. Maybe tomorrow . . . .

If I am not sure about the focal length to use and time is a wastin', I will go one wider than I think I will need so that I can get the photo and crop later. Also gives me more "slop" in case I am in too much of a hurry and need the extra DOF.

I was having trouble focusing through the bottom of my progressive eyeglasses, so I had a pair made for photography. The gradation is set so it is easy to focus without tipping my head back to look through the bottom of my glasses. It really has helped a lot. I do have to tip my head down a bit when I am walking around to look through the top 1/4 of my glasses for regular and distance vision, but I don't mind. That is much less of a bother than focusing the old way.

I used to have extra cable releases on my lenses, but I like to use pretty long cables, and one got caught on something once (I think it was the tripod), and I almost dropped the lens. After that, all the releases came off. I am usually pretty quick attaching them, but its tougher in the cold. I think I would rather lose the shot than one of my lenses.

That's all I can think of now.

[docholliday_sc001]

Instead of a dark cloth, I carry an XXL black t-shirt with me...roll it up and stuff it into a Tamrac side pouch on my backpack. Smaller, lighter, and a lot easier to work with. I pop the neck hole over the camera, stick my head into the bottom of the shirt, and use the arm holes to reach in with loupe...

And, I attached an IPaq to the bottom of my Zone VI so I can keep notes, GPS info, etc. It's attached with a small piano hinge piece I made. Swings down under the body when on the tripod.