Yes, I switched from an alkaline fix to an acid fix yesterday, that was the change. So it makes sense you never have problems with TF-4 , I didn't with Moersch.
Everything else is fine.
Yes, I switched from an alkaline fix to an acid fix yesterday, that was the change. So it makes sense you never have problems with TF-4 , I didn't with Moersch.
Everything else is fine.
Try fixing longer, with constant agitation.
That’s great news!
One thing - if by pre-wash you mean before the developer, don’t do that unless you then give the film a thorough plain water wash before the developer. You don’t want any sulfite hanging around in the emulsion before development in a staining developer such as PMK because sulfite will inhibit imagewise stain formation. In addition, in general it’s not a good idea because the plain sulfite solution is also quite alkaline. Although it isn’t strongly buffered it could still interfere with the target pH of a developer.
The sulfite (hypo clear) treatment should always be done post fixation.
Originally Posted by Mark J
Ah Ok that saved me some problems.
However I don't want to prolong the pre-wash too much, while the Pyro has been mixed and is oxidising.
Does John Wimberley's wash combination (above) make more sense then ?
I guess also he might have factored-in the alkaline effect of the carbonate ( used anyway in WD2D etc ) into the developer mix/times ?
Maybe the easiest thing is to mix up some more Moersch and dilute the Hypam down for prints instead.
It’s hard to know exactly what John W. intended although I don’t remember his normal instructions for his pyro developers factoring in a carbonate pre-wash. To be honest it sounds a little strange, but if he said it worked for him I suppose it’s worth trying.
If it were me I’d just do a few minutes in the sulfite solution after fixing as part of the wash cycle but if it’s a pain (extra step) then yes I suppose the easiest thing with this particular film would be to use the Moersch fixer.
Eg. here, Page 4 :
It's a option he gives for removing anti-halation dyes.
https://stores.photoformulary.com/co...01-0155%20.pdf
Interesting. That seems like a strange recommendation and formulation. The carbonate of course is alkaline. Then when you add the bisulfite (acidic sulfite) the solution will become less alkaline, closer to the working pH of Wd2d, but what you end up with is a sulfite solution. So it will work, but I still don’t think that’s a good idea before development if you want maximum imagewise stain. That said, it’s difficult to guesstimate whether or not it will materially impact anything so if that is actually something John recommended (rather than just Formulary) perhaps he tested it and found no ill effects. Can’t hurt to try it, and if it works it works.
Yes, so use with caution.
I did mix up and try WD2H recently ( a minor variant on WD2D+ ) and found very little image stain on the Fomapan, which was not what I expected, given the more alkaline 'B' ( Carbonate ) compared to PMK, so I'm keen to avoid additional ways of losing stain.
Anyway, I have two or three workable solutions to this now, so that's all I needed.
Thanks Mark! Actually managed to shoehorn a few 5x4" images in my book, including one action shot! Was half planning to maybe climb in North wales next week although looking at the forecast I may revise those plans somewhat....
I've had problems with some films (TMY especially) retaining lots of dye when processed in PKK, a normal acid stop and Hypam or Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4. In the case of TMY, some batches were almost opaque with dark blue dye (that turned brilliant magenta when finally washing out).
My solution was an alkaline after-bath. I tried sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfite and the spent developer. They all did the job and are listed here in the order of most rapid to least. I seems the more alkaline, the faster the dye removal. If you're having good luck with sulfite, then go with that.
Best,
Doremus
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