Fomapan 200 pink : fixer change

[Mark J]

Hi All
I have developed a few small batches of Foma 200 5x7" recently, but fixed them all with an existing bottle of Moersch alkaline fix.
Today I discarded that and mixed up some 1+4 Hypam.
I used the same 1.5 to 2min water pre-wash, but have residual pink on the base after approx a 4min fix.

Is this to be expected, do I need to use a longer pre-wash or some additive, if using an acid fix ?
Developer is PMK.

[Michael R]

The pH of the fixer shouldn’t normally make a big difference, but in some cases residual dyes that have not come out earlier in the process might come out somewhat faster in an alkaline fix, and that will tend to depend on the nature of the dyes and how hardened the emulsion is. I assume you used the right fixing time in Hypam.

If dye removal is more/less efficient in a particular fixer, that difference is more likely to be seen/noticed if the developer had a low level of sulfite - which is the case for staining developers such as PMK.

Extended washing will sometimes help. Alternatively the use of a hypo clearing agent (Ilford Washaid, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent etc.) after fixing can also sometimes help with the removal of stubborn residual dyes. A hypo clearing bath is functionally just sulfite and is easily made - roughly 25g/l sodium sulfite in water. Precision is not required. Distilled water is best for the sulfite bath if there’s a lot of calcium in your tap water (or add a gram or two of sodium bisulfite if you have some).

[Mark J]

OK thanks. I just bought some new sodium sulphite to help with the FB paper toning process.
Can I apply this after the fact ( eg. tomorrow ) ?

[dave_whatever]

My Foma200 aways ends up coming out pink, even with a pre-wash before the dev, even with fresh Hypam fixer, fixing with two baths, and lots of washing.

However, I did notice on negs that I go on to then do a rehalogenating bleach and redevelop with pyrocat then the pink disappears completely.

[Michael R]

OK thanks. I just bought some new sodium sulphite to help with the FB paper toning process.
Can I apply this after the fact ( eg. tomorrow ) ?

Yes that’s fine. Give the film a few minutes of soak in plain water first to get it throughly re-wet and then do the sulfite bath. 10 minutes in the sulfite with a little agitation here and there is probably enough (although you can’t overdo it so don’t worry) and then a wash. If that doesn’t do anything my suggestion would be to try re-fixing in fresh fix and then repeating the sulfite/wash and if that doesn’t do anything you’re probably stuck with some dye. A pink tinge isn’t going to matter when printing.

[Mark J]

OK thanks. It was fresh fix ( made up tonight ) and about a 20min wash, but let's see what the sulphite/sulphite bath does tomorrow. I will report back.

Edit : just found another relevant comment, from some info John Wimberley gave me. 1 level teaspoon of Sodium Carbonate and 1/2 tsp Bisulphite in 1 L , in the pre-wash, for dye mask.
I'll try the Na Sulphite first anyway.

[Offhand35]

Otherwise, you could try this. After the films have been fixed and washed, you could dip the films back into developer that you have not yet discarded. The remaining dyes should dissolve off with no harm to the images. Then a brief water wash and the usual wash in Photo-Flo (if you use that), and dry.
I learned this from the instruction sheet that came with my B's Reel, since there is little developer circulation behind the film with this reel, and some films, like Arista and Fomapan, have anti-halation dyes that are difficult to remove.

[Mark J]

Thanks Michael, the sodium sulphite worked a treat.
The dye was gone within 2 or 3 minutes.
I will try some in the pre-wash next time.

Thanks for the others who replied too.

Dave - I like the Grit blocs on your website. Good subject. I do a bit of bumbling around on the rocks myself, I take an interest in the scene.

[paulbarden]

A sodium sulfite soak at the end always works to remove any unwanted dye, from any film, IME.

[tundra]

Hi All
I have developed a few small batches of Foma 200 5x7" recently, but fixed them all with an existing bottle of Moersch alkaline fix.
Today I discarded that and mixed up some 1+4 Hypam.
I used the same 1.5 to 2min water pre-wash, but have residual pink on the base after approx a 4min fix.

Is this to be expected, do I need to use a longer pre-wash or some additive, if using an acid fix ?
Developer is PMK.

I've processed a fair bit of Foma 200 and fixed with TF-4 for 5-6min. I wash for 25min in running water and have never had residual pink coloration.

Assuming your fixer is new and properly mixed with distilled water (to eliminate water mineral content variability), the only thing I can think of might be the temperature at which you are fixing or insufficient washing.