Just bought a Fujinon 135/5.6 W ( first type )

[Vaughan]

It would seem that a 75 SWD might lose a few mm in each corner. How has your experience been with this lens on 5x7 ?

The older version has a large image, and stopped down to f32-f45 it covers but the lens really needs to be carefully centred. The significant cos4 cos^3 (theta) cos^N vignetting (due to the short focal length) distracts from the corners giving it a particular look that I really like. I'd not use this lens on 5x7 for colour transparency film without a centre filter, but I only use b+w.

https://www.reddit.com/r/largeformat..._wharf_5x7_bw/

I've used front tilt to lay the focus onto the ground, so the lens has enough coverage for a bit of scheimpflug. This image has had a bit of negative vignette in post to lighten the corners slightly, but no dodge or burn. The neg is embarrassingly dirty, it fell on the floor while drying. Despite that (and some diffraction from being almost fully stopped-down) the lens shows excellent sharpness across the frame.

[Mark J]

It's actually cos^3(theta) vignetting on a Super-Angulon type like the SWD ...... just to be pedantic...

[Joseph Kashi]

The older version has a large image, and stopped down to f32-f45 it covers but the lens really needs to be carefully centred. The significant cos4 vignetting (due to the short focal length) distracts from the corners giving it a particular look that I really like. I'd not use this lens on 5x7 for colour transparency film without a centre filter, but I only use b+w.

https://www.reddit.com/r/largeformat..._wharf_5x7_bw/

I've used front tilt to lay the focus onto the ground, so the lens has enough coverage for a bit of scheimpflug. This image has had a bit of negative vignette in post to lighten the corners a bit, but no dodge or burn. The neg is embarrassingly dirty, it fell on the floor while drying. Despite that (and diffraction from being almost fully stopped-down) the lens shows excellent sharpness across the frame.

Thank you for the information. I will try it sometime if I ever run across a 75 SWD. I like my little 75 /8 SW on 4x5.

[Vaughan]

It's actually cos^3(theta) vignetting on a Super-Angulon type like the SWD ...... just to be pedantic...

Thanks, I appreciate the correction. (I will update the original post.)

[Mark J]

Yes, good. it's commonly known by ( informed ) photographers that there's a cos^4(θ) law.
However this is not universal.

Luckily, the actuality is fairly simple, in that lenses tend to fall into three categories -

cos^4(θ) fall-off : All triplets, Tessars, Dialytes, plasmats, Celors, WF Ektar types, Dagors, Angulons

cos^3(θ) fall-off : All Super-Angulons, Grandagons, Biogons, SW and SWD forms.

cos^2(θ) fall-off ( though a little more variable ) : most retrofocus 35mm and MF lenses for reflex cameras.

[Mark J]

Well i received the lens about 30mins ago.
This is probably a record transit time from Japan !

Optically it looks great, as in the picture above. The lenses are very clean. The seller did declare some faint surface (cleaning) marking somewhere, using a bright white LED in the EBay 'movie' . This is really faint, as I hoped, barely visible in bright sunlight, so i have no concerns with that.

The (Seiko) shutter is clean, feels crisp and very little used. Controls are slightly stiff.
The shutter action is a little odd, so this is where I'd value some advice.
When I cock and then trip the shutter for an exposure, there is a delay. The cocking lever returns to its starting position, then there is a short delay of about 1/4 sec before the shutter opens and closes.
This is different to the Seiko I have on a recently-purchased 105mm f/8 SW.
I'd like to know if this is normal, or if it indicates that it definitely needs servicing.

[John Layton]

Mark, while I'm not familiar with this lens (shutter)...does it have a lever to switch the flash sync. from "X" to "M" or something similar? If so, check its position. The "M" setting will cause a slight delay in shutter opening, while the "X" will give a relatively instant response.

If this lever is present and happens to be set on "M," this will cause a slight delay in the actual tripping of the shutter...to allow for a flashbulb to reach its desirable near-peak-output "curve" to allow for maximum lighting efficiency. Back in the old days of press photographers running about with their 4x5 Speed Graphics and the like...it was not uncommon for the employment of a large "potato-masher" flash unit, using large "press" flashbulbs - and because many of these cameras were equipped with lenses in the 135mm (or close) focal length, its not too uncommon for such lenses of this earlier era to be equipped with "M-X" shutters.

There were also shutters with more than one "flashbulb" setting - with different amounts of delay depending on whatever class of bulb was being used.

With electronic flash units...seeing as how they reach peak intensity very quickly, no such delay is necessary and thus the "X" setting.

At any rate...do check for the presence of this lever and see where its set. If there is no such lever, or if the lever is set to "X," then your shutter may be in need of a cleaning.

[Mark J]

You're dead right, John.
With the level on 'X' it fires immediately ... genius !
What a clever little tweak.

Well, I'll be fitting up the lens to a '0' board this evening, ready to do some test photos.

[Mark J]

Ready...
Snow tomorrow but likely no decent light...and I'm working ... We'll see...

[Steve Goldstein]

It seems to me that a quarter of a second (250ms) is rather long for an M-sync delay. I always thought flash bulbs reached their peak output in 15-25ms. But unless you’re using flashbulbs this won’t matter, just leave it on X and carry on.