Pyrocat for "Seriously" Outdated Film?

[John Layton]

I've just about finished with refinements on my DIY "lightweight" 11x14 camera...and still have twenty four sheets of Tri-X in that format, with the expiration date being June of....1988!

I'd last used this film with good success about two years ago, with my "go to" exposure and development regimen for outdated films...setting ISO at around 80 and using a strong dilution of 72 F HC-110 for a bit of extra time to boot.

But as the HC-110 is now gone, I'll be testing a sheet with Pyrocat-HD...and my gut says to use it double strength (2/2/100) and for a generous amount of time (20 minutes), and perhaps up the agitation a bit - starting with one minute of tray rocking, then rock every thirty seconds for the remainder of development.

At any rate...if anyone here has used Pyrocat (in trays) for processing "seriously" outdated films, I'd love to hear about it!

Note: While I'm tending towards PMK for sheet films these days, I'm thinking that Pyrocat might be a better choice for films that are "seriously" outdated. Again...comments welcomed!

[Jim Noel]

Through my 40+ years using various pyro developers, i found Pyrocat HD to be the best for general use, and for experimenting with old films. I don't know what you mean by "seriously" outdated film.
How old is it? How has it been stored? What is the brand?
I have used many old films with success. My favorite has been Ilford FP4+. Film stored at a steady temperature for up to 5 years I used my normal dilution according to the image, 70 deg, and times usually were normal or up to 30% longer. I develop everything by inspection. I tried several methods over the years including time/temp in a JObo. However, i was always mor satisfied with the negatives produced via inspection.

[John Layton]

Thanks Jim...I'd be developing my remaining "old stock" of 11x14 Tri-X, expiration-dated June of 1988 (stored in a mix of warm/cool conditions since) - which as of two years ago still gave very useable results with (the old formulation of) HC-110 - mixed up strong and processed "agressively." At any rate...I'll be testing a sheet of this old film either tomorrow or the day after, and will relay results as I get them.

[monochromeFan]

I always read that semi stand development in rodinal was the "go -to" for seriously outdated films.

[Vaughn]

I have used PyrocatHD with out-dated film. I found an increase in exposure times due to the staining of the ample base fog of the film (due to its aging), but otherwise made fine platinum and carbon prints. However, my exposure times are long enough already without the stained base fog, so I tend to use Ilford Universal PQ Developer instead.

If silver printing, the staining of the base fog may not be such an issue.

[John Layton]

Here are two prints (one silver and one tannin toned cyanotype) from the most recent (maybe three years ago) "circa. 1988" 11x14 negative, films stored in conditions including hot attics...exposed at ASA 50 and processed "aggressively" in strong HC-110:





(Very noticeable base fog...but otherwise quite useable)

Edit: I've just received a new box of 25 sheets of 11x14 HP5+, dated to 2026 (B+H stocks this...bless them!), and will be starting to put this to good use - but will also be using up the rest of the old Tri-X, as there are certain advantages to what amounts to a massive amount of "pre-exposure!"

[jnantz]

hi John

I've never used HC110 ( but I have a bottle of the latest concoction for tintypes ) or pyrocat .. my go to for outdated film is 1/3 the ISO and develop in ansco 130, about 72F because glycin likes warmth, 1:6 for 6 minutes. you can do the same with Dektol but at 68F. develop like you would normally for your sheet film. I also use caffneol C ( made with home roasted Sumatra but any cheep crappy instant coffee will work / table/teaspoon recipe / doesn't need to be exact eyeballing it is fine ) .. with about 20cc of either the Ansco or Dektol in it. I split develop between the caffenol and either the Dek or Ansco .. 1:10. so 5 minutes in the print developer and directly into the caffenol (don't bother rinsing), it's like DD23 but not. I only expose and develop expired shelf stored film in that and it scans and/or printed in a darkroom without a hitch. (including really old tmz stored in a sock drawer for 20 years).

a few years ago I exposed an armload of 4x5royalpan1250 or whatever it was this way I contact printed everything on old photowarehouse faux Ilford RC with a bright light I usually use for silver chloride, 5-10seconds and then in caffenol+dektol .. if I could find the scans on my computer I'd post them but sadly my JPG stash is MIA.

[Tin Can]

I use Ilford Universal Developer for 130 year old plates

Just got fresh? NOS 1/4 plate at least 125 years old

Sealed

I will shoot it

Nos 1/4 plate by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr

[PRJ]

Staining developers and old film is no bueno in my experience. The stain just adds more base fog. Rodinal with sulfite has been the best for me but I haven't tried everything.

[John Layton]

Just processed a sheet of the old stuff (Tri-X circa. 1988) with Pyrocat...and while it does indeed exhibit a good amount of base fog and the associated "extra" bit of stain, it still looks useable.

PMK would likely go a bit too far, stain-wise, for the old film - but my new 11x14 film (HP5+) will likely go into PMK.