To continue the recent discussion of dry mounting: is it best practice to dry mount to a cotton rag substrate instead of an 'archival' foam board? When framing, is it advisable to have something behind whatever the print is mounted to as a layer of protection?
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Many may have personal preference, however dry mounting with MT5 (as you mentioned using) and the heat involved may affect archival form core, run a test to see. My preference is mount to acid free board with a foam core backing when framed. MT5 + drymount press = approximately 210-235 degrees. In addition I always pre-cook the board and the print (w/o tissue) in the dry mount press to remove moisture from the board and print.
Dave
Hi Peter
We mount to 100% rag board 2ply or 4ply and then use Acid free foam or coroplast in behind, The only time we mount to acid free foam is when we are preparing a frame that requires the image flush to the edge, in that case we will use spacers so the print does not touch the glass, in larger size mounts we use dibond or alupane as the backing material that is mounted too... Silver prints are hard to mount to aluminum, it can be done but hard.
We never use Gatorboard as it outgasses .
Bob
Gator behavior is well known. Outgassing is technically incorrect, although the symptom is analogous. They squarely address it in their own tech sheets. Proper sanding is mandatory. I won't go into detail here, except to state that even the wrong kind of sanding disc will ruin a job, because many of those bear lubricating stearates - bond-breakers! I like Gator as a premium quality backer board BEHIND the mounting substrate itself, but only use it with respect to big color print installations.
My favorite cold-mounting substrate is Ultraboard - very smooth all-plastic faces, and a cost-effective alternative to Dibond, BUT not suitable for drymounting either. Gator brand has a Gatorplast equivalent, distinct from their traditional phenolic/wood pulp product.
The smoothest of ph-neutral paper-faced foam board is Mighty Core - way better than art store style acid-free fome-core boards, but pricier. Ultramount is good too.
Thanks, Guys!
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I always mount to the same cotton rag board that I’m cutting the window mat out of and then use acid free foam core for a backing board. I generally have a reveal between the window and the print so I want the mount board to match the window board. The foam core backing board helps keep everything flat against the glass.
Hope you’ll post a photo of the matted and framed print once you’re done.
Roger
Thanks, Roger. That's what I remember doing, as well. I'll see what I can do.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Basically what I do as well. I hate it when the mount board and window don't match (saw some AA prints in the Portland Art Museum show a year or so ago that were horrible in that regard - conservators!).Originally Posted by Roger Thoms
I've been using acid-free archival corrugated for backing board. I really like that there's no foam involved. I don't know why, but I have an aversion to foam-core board.
Best,
Doremus
Thanks, Doremus. I used the same way back when from when Light Impressions was in Rochester. I might even still have some. I don't like the foam board either.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Hi Doremus. do you mind mentioning the backing you use, we are considering to move to a corrugated material for our backing other than acid free foam
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