I would like some advice on what type of camera I should buy for a long photo trip?

[Andy F]

Hi everyone,

I am trying to figure out what camera I want to buy for a long photography trip. I think I want to take an 8 by 10 camera to South America. I did it last year with an old graphlex with a schneider symmar-s lens on it and I had a great experience. People were so kind to me. I was able to play out my fantasies of being Paul Strand in Scotland or Richard Avedon in the mid-west. I would hike by peoples homes and they would allow me to take pictures of them while they were just going about their day. I feel like it is time to move forward with something more substantial. I was wondering what people would use for a trip like this. I was thinking about getting a Kodak Master View or maybe a Tachihara. What would other people do? Also, what lenses would people take?

-Andrew

[Mark Sampson]

If you've already done this once with a 4x5 Graflex, you're aware of the weight and bulk of an 8x10. Its just more (a lot more) of what you're already used to.
I've used a Kodak Master 8x10 both on the job and for personal work, and wish I hadn't sold mine. It's a fine rugged camera, whose Achilles' heel is its proprietary (and hard to find) lens boards. My first 4x5, in 1982, was a Tachihara. It served me well for ten years, and I'd be happy with one of their 8x10s.
A slight wide-angle view might be appropriate for your work, photographers as diverse as Joel Meyerowitz and Jock Sturges have preferred it. My first choice for lenses would be a 10"/6.3 Kodak Wide Field Ektar, a fine lens that gives beautiful tonality and sharpness. Naturally you'd want to have the shutter serviced before going overseas with one, as they are all at least 55 years old now. I haven't used one but many people have used and spoken highly of the 250mm Fujinon-W. Paul Strand used a 12" Goerz Dagor on his 8x10 Deardorff, another classic lens (if slightly less wide).
You're going to get many different opinions on this subject, we all do things a bit differently; I'm just first in line.
Best of luck with your search and your intriguing project!

[Thom Bennett]

I agree with Mark. The Kodak Master 8x10 is a rugged metal 8x10 camera that is quick to set up and offers fast focusing via the sliding bed. Great for photographing people (which is why I traded the Deardorff with its slower rack & pinion focusing). To deal with the hard-to-find original lens boards I had an adapter made that takes Technika boards. Bonus is that the lenses take up a bit less space in the bag being on the smaller boards. I use Fuji's in 180mm, 250mm, 300mm, & 420mm plus a 360mm Commercial Congo on it and it is a pleasure to set up and use. Good luck on the trip!

If you've already done this once with a 4x5 Graflex, you're aware of the weight and bulk of an 8x10. Its just more (a lot more) of what you're already used to.
I've used a Kodak Master 8x10 both on the job and for personal work, and wish I hadn't sold mine. It's a fine rugged camera, whose Achilles' heel is its proprietary (and hard to find) lens boards. My first 4x5, in 1982, was a Tachihara. It served me well for ten years, and I'd be happy with one of their 8x10s.
A slight wide-angle view might be appropriate for your work, photographers as diverse as Joel Meyerowitz and Jock Sturges have preferred it. My first choice for lenses would be a 10"/6.3 Kodak Wide Field Ektar, a fine lens that gives beautiful tonality and sharpness. Naturally you'd want to have the shutter serviced before going overseas with one, as they are all at least 55 years old now. I haven't used one but many people have used and spoken highly of the 250mm Fujinon-W. Paul Strand used a 12" Goerz Dagor on his 8x10 Deardorff, another classic lens (if slightly less wide).
You're going to get many different opinions on this subject, we all do things a bit differently; I'm just first in line.
Best of luck with your search and your intriguing project!

[Andy F]

I agree with Mark. The Kodak Master 8x10 is a rugged metal 8x10 camera that is quick to set up and offers fast focusing via the sliding bed. Great for photographing people (which is why I traded the Deardorff with its slower rack & pinion focusing). To deal with the hard-to-find original lens boards I had an adapter made that takes Technika boards. Bonus is that the lenses take up a bit less space in the bag being on the smaller boards. I use Fuji's in 180mm, 250mm, 300mm, & 420mm plus a 360mm Commercial Congo on it and it is a pleasure to set up and use. Good luck on the trip!

Hi Thom,
Thanks for the advice. What about the weight of the Master View as compared to the Deardorff. I assume the Master View is much lighter. This could be good because heavier means more stable and less problems with camera movement but it also means it is difficult to carry around. Do you need to shoot with a faster shutter speed with the Masterview. Any issues with wind.

[Thom Bennett]

Andy,

I think the weight of the two cameras is about the same ~12lbs. I'm not a backpacker so don't worry too much about weight but I do like stability.

Speaking of stability, the KMV has a 1/4" tripod hole on the sliding assembly so you can use a monopod or some other form of support to keep things really tight. I tend to use shorter lenses and don't generally have to deal with a lot of wind so I haven't used this feature but I'm glad to know it's there. I'm sure it would really help if you have the front end racked out all the way.

Two other features I forgot to mention: front shift and a micro rise/fall adjustment for those oh-so-tiny tweaks.

It's a very well-designed camera and I haven't missed the "beauty" of the wooden Deardorff. I got over that once I was introduced to the KMV.

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...asterview.html

[Andy F]

Andy,

I think the weight of the two cameras is about the same ~12lbs. I'm not a backpacker so don't worry too much about weight but I do like stability.

Speaking of stability, the KMV has a 1/4" tripod hole on the sliding assembly so you can use a monopod or some other form of support to keep things really tight. I tend to use shorter lenses and don't generally have to deal with a lot of wind so I haven't used this feature but I'm glad to know it's there. I'm sure it would really help if you have the front end racked out all the way.

Two other features I forgot to mention: front shift and a micro rise/fall adjustment for those oh-so-tiny tweaks.

It's a very well-designed camera and I haven't missed the "beauty" of the wooden Deardorff. I got over that once I was introduced to the KMV.

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...asterview.html

You used a monopod with an 8x10? I never heard of that before. Isn't that a recipe for a disaster.

[Thom Bennett]

Haha! No, the camera is fully supported by a proper tripod. What I was referring to is the front focusing assembly. That has a 1/4” tripod hole that you could mount a monopod that would give the front of the camera, under the lens, some support if you have a lot of extension.

[AuditorOne]

Like Mark Sampson says, everyone has their opinion. Intrepid has a great new 8x10 that is very portable. Very reasonable prices as well. I own a 4x5 Intrepid that I absolutely love and am using fairly regularly along with a Cambo monorail to re-learn what I seem to have forgotten about large format photography.

But there are a number of great options out there and used cameras can be very useful. Right now I have marvelous Conley 8x10 that was built in the very early part of the 1900s. I haven't used it in quite awhile but it looks ready for me anytime I'm ready to go out again. My lens of choice was the 12" Goerz Dagor. It is pretty sturdy but not so heavy that you can't pack it around. Of course you are well aware that the camera is only part of the weight and bulk. Film, film holders, and everything else contribute as well.

[Maris Rusis]

I've done extended photographic tours within Australia using a Tachihara 810HD triple extension camera and it did everything asked of it. Lenses were a Fujinon-W 300mm, a Nikkor-W 210mm, and a Schneider Super Angulon 121mm. The Nikkor-W 210mm is "sort of" convertible. With the front half screwed off it delivers about 720mm at f16 which, when well stopped down, gives useable negatives for contact printing. BUT none of this involved hiking except for short day excursions. Working out of a car is pretty well essential if you have to move every day or two. And the car is a somewhat secure lock-up for you, your gear, and your travel supplies.

I toyed with the idea of traveling overseas with a full 8x10 outfit but by the time it came down to five heavy cases and about 85Kg I realised I couldn't single-handedly make it in and out of airports in any sort of physical good order. Then the excess luggage charges would be hurtful but not as painful as the eternal worries about lost baggage.

My big compromise was to travel overseas with a Fuji GSW680, a TLR, and fine grain film. Cameras+meter+film are carry-on luggage and the tripod goes into checked. The negatives are big enough for quality portraits that would gratify most sitters but I'll admit nothing invites people to pose like the presence and majesty of an 8x10 on a big tripod.

[Torontoamateur]

the first issue is film and processing. With the ariport security I believe it is important to have the film developed in the country you are traveling in. I ship my film to the hotel I wll be at . I make thi spre arrangement. Then I make contact with a processing house in the country and arrange for my film to be sent there when I am shooting. The finished film is sent to my home in Canada. NOW TO THE CAMERA? tAKE WHAT YOU CAN PUT IN A CARRY ON. i HAVE AN EARLY kODAK 8X10 THAT FITS AND SOME HOLDERS TOO. hAVE A COMPANION TO BRING THE TRIPOD AND LENSES.