Re-Entry Strategy

[Vaughan]

...so I don’t have to worry about getting someone’s cast-away that needs repairs or a new bellows...

Ten or more years ago, new bellows were the HARDEST things to find and when you could they were expensive. Now new bellows are being made in China (and elsewhere, but I only have experience with the ones from China) to a high standard. Thin and light tight, very reasonably priced. Multiple colours if that's your thing.

The variety of camera bellows that the sellers are making are impressive, and you can order made-for-a-specific-model and know they will fit. I have bought such bellows for Wista 45N and 45D, Toyo Field 45A, Toyo View 45, Rittreck View 5x7, a Toyo 810 bellows, and also had a bellows custom made to fit a 100 year old Japanese wood 5x7 camera I picked up.

Bellows aren't particularly hard to change, and if you are up to the task you can pick up some real bargains. Go for cameras that have their bellows in tatters and the rest of the camera is dusty but otherwise working and complete: these are the cheapest. Cameras with bellows covered in patches but sold as "mint++++ few leaks" but have parts missing or broken are often more expensive.

Note that original Toyo bellows have not aged well and even if they are unopened NOS or LNIB they will have a hole in every. single. corner. So buy a cheap Toyo Field 45a with ragged bellows and put a new one on it for $200.

Note also that folding wood field cameras almost universally have crinkled and creased bellows from being packed away incorrectly. These look bad and reduce the price significantly but are often light tight and functional. I bought an early Tachihara Fiel 45 with seriously creased bellows, and an immediately ordered a new Chinese replacement bellows. After receiving the camera the bellows look really bad but are light tight. They are apparently made from special sheep leather and are paper-thin, and I couldn't bring myself to replace them.

[Michael R]

I guess an Intrepid (I have no experience with it but others seem to like it and the price is right) or something like a Chamonix maybe. If you go used Sinar monorails are great, but I hear you…used is a bit of a gamble. It was never my thing. Assume “Excellent mint A+++++ wow” means gross and moldy smelly bent warped and you’ll be fine

On the developing side I definitely would not use any of the inserts made for Paterson tanks with the possible exception of B’s. My two cents.

[Jim Jones]

America and other countries have been making good view cameras for a long time. Many are a bargain when compared to even the least expensive new cameras. Most were built to last, and last they certainly did. I used them for decades until going digital. Graflex company made the neat Graphic View Camera, built to be as durable as their more famous press cameras. Even my 100-year-old R. B. Cycle Graphic seems to be in perfect working order, although its leather case and straps are failing. Burke & James view cameras might not be quite as elegant, but they too served me well. Some of the new camera companies may have knowledge of how cameras function. The experience and the facilities to produce them may well be another matter.

[otto.f]

“Thoughts?? “

In the end you will want a darkroom. I do not see a nice difference in favor of film in scanning LF sheets. Besides, I actually hate scanning, it’s not at all a nice thing to spend time on whereas wet printing always has that magical moment and the proud that you made it at last how you had visualized it.

[j.e.simmons]

I'd suggest that you look at Sinars for sale on keh.com and usedphotopro.com. Those are top of the line cameras that sell for only a few hundred dollars now. Those two companies have accurate descriptions and return policies, unlike ebay. I've never seen an Intrepid, so can't comment on them.

[jnantz]

there are some processes that do not require a darkroom to make prints (contact prints) ... you might not need a darkroom..
if you have access to the classifieds here there might be cameras &c. I've never seen an intrepid, if you read the posts on-site
people seem to either love them or hate them .. like the carbon fiber toyo view / field cameras .. my only advice would. be to
NOT buy some antique clunker that needs a little work / TLC that you need to manufacture bellows for &c ...
and send your lenses out for a CLA so your shutters are calibrated ...
have fun!

[Axelwik]

A new Intrepid 4x5 is about $390 right now (varies due to exchange rate).

New Intrepid, careful selection of a couple lenses, a few good film holders, and you're in business - no messing with a used camera that that was someone else's problem and is now your problem.

Here's a photo of my 5x7 Intrepid in action making a 10-minute exposure (no light leaks - it's new!):thumbnail_image0 (20) by Marco Wikstrom, on Flickr

[Bob Kerner]

A couple of people mentioned the Chamonix. Those are lovely looking cameras but 3x the price. I know, "buy once cry once" but I'd rather start back at $400 than $1500 if I choose to go with a new camera. My first foray into 4x5 ended with me feeling like I quite sucked at it....and that's on me because I didn't really put the effort into it.....and because I was sending everything to the lab, the gap between shooting and seeing the image wasn't particularly helpful to me understanding what I was doing correctly or incorrectly. So I'm trying to exercise some moderation!


What are your thoughts on:
1. Film holders, new vs used? I suppose this is like anything used that "it depends", but I wonder what condition some of these things are in with the potential for cracks in the plastic or uneven film channel guides. Toyo holders are going for $120-150 for a new pair.
2. Fresnel or no? I honestly cannot recall whether my Wisner Tech Field had a fresnel. I think so but don't have any pictures of the rear standard. I wear reading glasses if that matters.

[Bob Kerner]

A new Intrepid 4x5 is about $390 right now (varies due to exchange rate).

New Intrepid, careful selection of a couple lenses, a few good film holders, and you're in business - no messing with a used camera that that was someone else's problem and is now your problem.

You're feeding into my thought process! One of the concerns I've read about and seen (Youtube) is that you need to keep the lenses on the lighter side; otherwise the front standard can get squirrelly. Is that true? I've never put much thought into the weight of lenses.

[paulbarden]

You're feeding into my thought process! One of the concerns I've read about and seen (Youtube) is that you need to keep the lenses on the lighter side; otherwise the front standard can get squirrelly. Is that true? I've never put much thought into the weight of lenses.

I've not had a problem with somewhat heavier lenses on my Intrepids, as long as I don't stick a Petzval on them!
Intrepid used to warn users not to put "heavy" lenses in their cameras, but now they state: "The Intrepid 4x5 will accept all standard copal shutter style 4x5 lenses from 75mm-300mm", with no mention about weight limitations. I think you'll be fine to put most any "standard" lens/shutter on the 4x5 Intrepid without any concerns. Just not an Aero Ektar or something like that.
I regularly put my 300mm f4.5 Kodak Ektar on my 8x10 Intrepid and have no problems with that. The 300mm Ektar is quite heavy. (2 pounds 11 ounces/1220 grams)