Baby, it's cold outside...

[John Kasaian]

Which means it's time for me to do a wee bit of annual maintenance on the LF cameras.
After discovering awhile back that my 'dorff profoundly dislikes Butcher's Wax, I'm looking for a new protective wax for the old gal.
I still have quite a bit of No.630 Lubriplate to lube the metal-to-metal contacts, but nothing to lube the wood-to-wood bearing surfaces or to
protect from the elements.
So I was wondering what you guys use to maintain your wooden cameras?

[Vaughn]

Check the tightness of screws every decade or so.
My equipment gets ridden hard and put away wet.

[Keith Pitman]

Here's what Ken Hough recommended on his website:

Deardorff Care and Lubrication

Following these instructions will increase the longevity of your camera.
It is your obligation to your camera to do this

1st. The Wood. If it gets wet don’t worry ! The lacquer is water proof as is the bellows fabric! Wipe yourself down then wipe the camera and bellows. Let dry and spray the ENTIRE camera (not Ground Glass) with Spray Lemon Pledge. Let it sit a half hour. Wipe to a sheen with a VERY SOFT DRY CLOTH TOWEL.
NEVER EVER WASH THE GROUND GLASS. The lines will WASH OFF !! If the Glass has no lines wash by immersing in soapy water. Wipe with a soft wash cloth and rinse and dry.
The bellows were made with everything from Leather to Naugahyde to a material that was used for military rain coats. On the synthetics wipe with a soft damp sponge and let dry. Spray with Pledge. On leather be VERY carefull. Some conditioners can soften the glue holding them together. I use Lexsol with out any problems. Some use mink oil. What ever you choose do so with caution and test it on a small spot on the bottom of the bellows. The glue softening takes 6 months or more to happen.

2nd. The Metal. DO NOT USE ANY POLISH ON IT. EVER !! Polish will get under the parts and rot the wood
screw holes. Keep the camera waxed as above.

The reason I do not mention metal cleaning is that there is a HUGE chance the plating will peel or flake off. Especially older cameras. I do not want to be responsible for that. I just recomend the least evasive method. There's only 4 stainless parts that clean up without any hassle. The rear swing and front swing. All else is plated brass. The U shaped Front standard is Mild Steel Flat Wire. These get rusty. They were never copper plated as should be done prior to nickle plating being applied. If you want, try a Scotch Brite "purple pad" . Available at Ace Hrdwr.. PLEASE use mineral spirits when cleaning the metal with a purple pad. BE Gentle!!!

3rd. The most important lubrication is the rear extension racks. Those are the 12 in long (on an 8x10) or 8 in long (5x7 or 4x5 ) straight gear racks. Each has 2 slots in it. Each year Fill the slots with LUBRIPLATE #630 brand grease. Roll the rear turntable forward and wipe the excess off. Fill the slots again and roll it back. Wipe excess off. and clean up. If grease gets in the teeth, use an old tooth brush to pull it out. DO NOT CLEAN THE SLOTS OUT. This is good for a year. Pinion Rods need a drop of oil every year also. Lubriplate can be bought at a hardware store. Get the thickest, Like peanut butter. If you can not get Lubriplate use a thick white lithium grease. Remember your car needs its lubrication so does your camera !!
Wood to wood surfaces get waxed with a block of Candy making wax available at the grocery store.

Do this on your birthday or every 6 months if it used heavily. Your camera will thank you !


I'm not sure I would use Pledge, especially if it has silicone in it.

[John Kasaian]

Any particular wax? At one time, Ken Hough recommended candymaker's wax, but I can't find any locally, which i why I got into using Butcher's Wax ("really good stuff---bowling alleys use it," they said. Nope!)

[Drew Wiley]

Wax can be voodoo and build up, and trap grime. The safest would be a pure microcrystalline paraffin like Renaissance Wax. Second in line would be a pure Carnauba wax. Avoid Beeswax.

Good traditional oil/wax finishes like once used on wooden cameras are very difficult to find in this country, and quite prone to causing rag spontaneous combustion. I know the right kind, but don't like recommending it for that very reason. I'll just say, you'll never find it in a hardware store or home center - it's imported, and not even legal to sell in this State.

Silicone, including Pledge, is to wood what DCon is to mice - avoid it entirely.

[tundra]

Which means it's time for me to do a wee bit of annual maintenance on the LF cameras.
After discovering awhile back that my 'dorff profoundly dislikes Butcher's Wax, I'm looking for a new protective wax for the old gal.
I still have quite a bit of No.630 Lubriplate to lube the metal-to-metal contacts, but nothing to lube the wood-to-wood bearing surfaces or to
protect from the elements.
So I was wondering what you guys use to maintain your wooden cameras?

But you live in Kali, what's "cold" there .... 68F?

[Drew Wiley]

Sounds like you are quite unfamiliar with CA geography, tundra. Let's just say that most common type of wax being sold here this time of year is ski wax.

[John Kasaian]

Wax can be voodoo and build up, and trap grime. The safest would be a pure microcrystalline paraffin like Renaissance Wax. Second in line would be a pure Carnauba wax. Avoid Beeswax.

Good traditional oil/wax finishes like once used on wooden cameras are very difficult to find in this country, and quite prone to causing rag spontaneous combustion. I know the right kind, but don't like recommending it for that very reason. I'll just say, you'll never find it in a hardware store or home center - it's imported, and not even legal to sell in this State.

Silicone, including Pledge, is to wood what DCon is to mice - avoid it entirely.

I have used beeswax in the past to lube the wood to wood surfaces, but I've been out of it for years. I do have Renaissance wax though, so I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

[LabRat]

Humorist SJ Perleman (writer for Marx Brothers films) wrote a book, "Baby, it's cold inside"...

Houses here often have no insulation and rinky-dink heating systems, so it can get very cold inside...

Steve K

[Mark Sampson]

Renaissance wax is the best stuff. Thirty years ago, Zone VI recommended it for my then-new 4x5. I've treated the camera with it occasionally, which despite the abuse I've given it, still looks good.
And my wife, a photo conservator, approves of Renaissance wax as well. A little goes a long way!