I assume the OP has already done that. On his lens that is probably mandatory -- at least for the rear glass.
In my case, I can't remove the rear glass -- but the shutter is NOT on a board -- and I'm wondering if it is glued in place to the shutter. With what I don't know.
I'm going to try everything -- when I have the time.
If you are mechanically inclined and not risk adverse...
If you have access to a vise that opens to 4 inches place the Technika board horizontal in the vise clamping by the 2 parallel flat edges. Find a slotted screwdriver with a tip that fits the slot in the retaining ring well. With the screwdriver tip pointed in an Anti-clockwise direction find the best angle to contact the the retaining ring slot fully and still push the retaining ring in an Anti-clockwise direction and tap the back of the screwdriver with a small hammer.
You won't be able to apply much more torque with the wrench you bought,They flex too easily.
I have a heavy duty one which cost me about $150, 40+ years ago that I don't see advertised today.
Paul's method is a rather good one.
Just before the holidays I picked up the lens from one of the two optical/mechanical specialists left round my neck of the woods. Turns out the ring had not been glued, just overtightened. But the front element has been glued into the shutter. That's why this:
didn't work.Originally Posted by Chuck Pere
Shutters speeds checked out accurate and repeatable, so he didn't bother trying to get the front lens out of the shutter for now.
I wonder how these lenses end up in the hands of people who would (i) maltreat it like this one, and (ii) not disclose the maltreatment referred to under (i) at the time of the online sale. Apparently it pays off these days to draft elaborate questionnaires to get the seller to disclose all kinds of ridiculous defects before buying.
The mechanic who handled my lens showed me the spanner wrenches he used. They are vintage and Canon-branded - from back in the day when he worked at Canon. They are relatively small but heavy and flat, so you can grab them with pliers if you need to exert more force. Have looked around for these but came up with nothing. All you really need to apply more force is a longer lever.
I found this tho, which looks good for that reason: https://www.micro-tools.de/en/Lens-T...Ring-Tool.html. Anybody have any experience with this kind of spanner wrench?
It's amazing what some people do to their gear -- but they probably don't think they are abusing it. They probably think they are "helping" in some way -- and have no idea that they are really creating a problem in the future.
I was able to solve my "glued lens" problem, but not in the best way.
all you need is a little black India ink and some clear nail polish to fill in the gashes works every time !
and then some oil from behind the air if that doesn't work
I have a travel clock I took apart years ago, I didn't realize the main spring was seized and over wound and when I took the last screw out it went S P R O I N G and I wasn't able to stick everything back in ... I shoulda had some crazy glue, it would have helped
I don't have experience with that particular style wrench but I have used similar pin spanner wrenches
when I service my metalworking machines. To me those are preferrable over the H style wrenches
you can get a better grip and don't have to deal with torsion issues with the H style on stubborn rings.
The only issue would be the length of the pins relative to the depth of the retaining ring.
I don't suppose you took any snapshots of those old Canon tools ?
It would be interesting to see them.
JimC
The SK Grimes wrench (with flat tips) is something I have used over and over again with complete satisfaction. I think I've had it around 20 years, or more. It has also more than paid for itself by giving me a way to change my watch batteries.
I find that kind of thing in photo equipment that somehow survived the Great Depression...
The 'order of the day' was "Make do, or do without", and "Necessity is the mother of invention".
Socks were darned, Model T's were converted to sawmills, etc.
Twine, wire, glue, tape..whatever it took to fix things cheaply.
First, an electrical cord wrapped around the retaining ring to apply even pressure to remove it.
If that does not work...heat up the retaining ring enough to melt wax and let the wax infiltrate the threads as it cools. Then remove the ring.
If that does not work...use a Dremel tool with a small drill to make a hole in the side of the retaining ring to weaken it.
If that does not work...then use a cutoff wheel on the Dremel to slice through where the drilled hole is.
Basically, do what you can to sacrifice the retaining ring.
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