Dektol staining of resin paper???

[PrairiePhotographer]

I am printing on Ilford Multigrade RC Warmtone paper. After working with Ilford Multigrade developer, I decided to experiment with Dektol. I like the results with Dektol except for the slightly tea-colored border it leaves (vs. the strong white border which results from the Multigrade developer). Any advice on how to avoid this or correct it would be appreciated.

Here is my process:

1. Split grade exposure using 00 and 5 new Ilford filters
2. Develop in Dektol for 1 minute at 68 degrees
3. Stop bath for about 10 seconds
4. Fixer for 45 seconds
5. Hypo for 45 seconds
6. Quick rinse in tap water
5. Second fixer bath for 45 seconds
6. Hypo for 30 seconds
7. Water bath for 45 minutes (in a print washing tank)

Note that I started with a fresh, unopened bag of Dektol bought this week from a reputable retailer. The bag contents had a yellow hue to it; perhaps that is a factor (?).

I prefer the coloration Dektol produces for the core print (a wedding picture of my son and daughter in law), but don't like the tea-colored border.

Thanks for any advice.

Howard

[paulbarden]

When you say "Hypo", what exactly do you mean? Hypo is one of the common names for Sodium thiosulfate, a fixer agent. I doubt you're using three fixers. If you're using a hypo clearing agent between fixers, that isn't standard practice and could be leading to staining of the prints. And you're killing your second fixer if you take a print straight from hypo clear into the fix.

[Duolab123]

Dektol is best for 2 minutes @68F

[Willie]

Sounds like your Dektol is bad. The dry chemicals should not be discolored.

[jnantz]

I am not sure if they fixed their dektol problem but for a while there when it was mixed up it was as dark as chocolate milk.
it was suggested there was nothing wrong with it, but it stained paper and didn't work right. the ilford developer is good stuff
if you like it's results stick with that, or it might be fun to get the stock ingredients and mix up dektol ( D72 ) from scratch, you probably won't have this same trouble.
if you mix it from scratch, don't bother getting lab grade sodium carbonate, just go to Walmart or your local grocery store and get a box of
arm and hammer super washing soda, it costs pennies compared to lab grade and it works fine. you can use it to sort of clean your darkroom trays too...

[Michael R]

Dektol in good working order should not discolour or stain anything. In fact it should function virtually identically to the Multigrade developer OP was using before.

There have been various issues over the past few years with some of the manufactured Kodak-branded powdered chemicals including Dektol. Perhaps one of these problems (or something else such as faulty storage at the retailer level etc.) is the reason for the staining - incidentally Dektol powder should basically be white or very slightly off-white at worst.

As an aside there are other potential problems as well as mistakes in OPs processing workflow. I suggest going back to Ilford’s straight forward processing directions.

[Robert Bowring]

It sounds to me that you are under developing and over fixing. Ilford Multigrade developer instructions say 1 to 3 minutes at a dilution of 1:9. Ilford Rapid Fixer instructions say 30 seconds at a dilution of 1:4. Why are you fixing so much? When all else fails follow the instructions.

[paulbarden]

For that matter, why are you washing the prints for 45 minutes after Hypo Clearing? Ten minutes would be more than enough for RC paper.

[Oren Grad]

Recommended fixing time for the Ilford RC papers is 30 seconds in film-strength fixer (if you're using Ilford products, it's either Hypam or Rapid Fixer at 1+4), and recommended wash is 2 minutes. Note the following warnings from the Ilford data sheet:

There is no benefit in extending fixation beyond the recommended time; some loss of print quality might be seen when long fixing times are given due to image etching. Also, long fixing times will affect the image colour of the paper.

Prolonged immersion in water can cause edge penetration and print curl with resin coated papers; for this reason, avoid wet times longer than 15 minutes.

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-co...Papers-J20.pdf

[nolindan]

Border staining can be due to active developer in the print emulsion reacting with the dissolved silver in the fixing bath.

If this is indeed the cause of the staining then using acid stop bath for 30 seconds should make the problem go away.