Super Chromega F Dichroic II 10"x10" enlarger help

[pierce4x5shooter]

Hi all,

So I'm setting up a Chromega F Dichroic for 8x10 printing, and I have it mounted on a Fotar Chassis. One thing I've noticed: typically on enlargers, there is a lever which lifts the light house off the negative stage so that you can insert the negative, but here, I have to push the light house up with one hand, and insert the negative with the other. The light house isn't completely secure because of this (there is a high potential that it will fall off completely), and there are 2 screw holes on either side which I assume is for securing it in place just enough so that it won't completely fall off the chassis when inserting a negative. Is this typical or am I missing something? Also, when aligning the enlarger, my plan was to focus on adjusting the base board rather than the lens and negative stage, as I believe there isn't a way to adjust the lens or negative stage with without great difficulty. I have one of the Versalab Parallel Alignment laser levels, which will make it a lot easier to get precise alignment. Does anyone have experience aligning a Fotar chassis?

Any help much appreciated! Thank you!

[pierce4x5shooter]

Here are some additional images showing the sides of the enlarger where the screw holes are. Thank you all again!

[Pieter]

Hi all,

So I'm setting up a Chromega F Dichroic for 8x10 printing, and I have it mounted on a Fotar Chassis. One thing I've noticed: typically on enlargers, there is a lever which lifts the light house off the negative stage so that you can insert the negative, but here, I have to push the light house up with one hand, and insert the negative with the other. The light house isn't completely secure because of this (there is a high potential that it will fall off completely), and there are 2 screw holes on either side which I assume is for securing it in place just enough so that it won't completely fall off the chassis when inserting a negative. Is this typical or am I missing something? Also, when aligning the enlarger, my plan was to focus on adjusting the base board rather than the lens and negative stage, as I believe there isn't a way to adjust the lens or negative stage with without great difficulty. I have one of the Versalab Parallel Alignment laser levels, which will make it a lot easier to get precise alignment. Does anyone have experience aligning a Fotar chassis?

Any help much appreciated! Thank you!

Not familiar with this enlarger, but could you shim the negative stage and the lens mount to align them?

[pierce4x5shooter]

I never thought of doing that! The only issues that I think could happen would be light leaks and/or increased instability/unpredictability. The lenses are heavy, and it's set against two screws, and any shimming on the negative carrier would make it so that the light house sitting on top would be unstable. But this might work at more subtle levels.

[Tin Can]

I sold my FOTAR 7 years ago

But I did set it up correctly

Those cables confuse some sailors

You can adjust the upper stages, but every FOTAR is slightly different as they added safeties

The baseboard has 5 screw adjustments', one in center! all underneath

The thick composite board absorbs moisture and warps

Many cast iron weights are added or removed to balance the Head

Heads vary in weight a lot

When all is balanced the slightest touch will lock the baseboard stage

Really a fantastic machine

Setting cables can be confusing

If you are in England more help may be available

You chosen head is very lightweight and designed for basements 8' high

I gave away mine and made DIY



and use manual clamps for safety until all is SAFE

[Erik Larsen]

I’m a little confused. Doesn’t your negative carrier slide in its own slot? I have the same setup as you have and the negative carrier slides in a slot below the filter drawer. The head is secured by set screws through the angle iron. If yours is like mine you should not have to move the head to insert your negative carrier. Here is a pic of my negative carrier partially inserted. You can’t see how the head attaches because it is covered in gaffer’s tape to eliminate light leaks.

[Erik Larsen]

Aligning the neg and lens stage is really simple. Adjust the large nut for side to side alignment and the smaller nut in the narrow slot for front to back. See pic. I’m assuming yours is similar to mine, if not we will need better pics to help.

[Tin Can]

FOTAR by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr

[pierce4x5shooter]

I’m a little confused. Doesn’t your negative carrier slide in its own slot? I have the same setup as you have and the negative carrier slides in a slot below the filter drawer. The head is secured by set screws through the angle iron. If yours is like mine you should not have to move the head to insert your negative carrier. Here is a pic of my negative carrier partially inserted. You can’t see how the head attaches because it is covered in gaffer’s tape to eliminate light leaks.

Yes, it does, but the handle that's for the 8x10" mask gets in the way, so I can't clear the entire negative holder into the enlarger. It's weird, the only way I've been able to get it in entirely is by lifting the head a little bit so that it can be fully inserted. Is it not supposed to be fully inserted? What size screws do you use for the sides to the head?

[Erik Larsen]

Yes, it does, but the handle that's for the 8x10" mask gets in the way, so I can't clear the entire negative holder into the enlarger. It's weird, the only way I've been able to get it in entirely is by lifting the head a little bit so that it can be fully inserted. Is it not supposed to be fully inserted? What size screws do you use for the sides to the head?

You may have to bend the handle up a little on the filter holder to make it clear the negative carrier or put little spacers under the head so that the filter drawer handle clears the negative carrier. Im not sure of the size screws. The holes should be threaded and you just tighten enough so the head is secure, don’t over tighten or you’ll just dent the head.