Spotmeter for Zone System

[Peter De Smidt]

Setting up a digital camera to act as a light meter for film is not as straight forward as one might think...contrast settings in the camera are really important.....but then you have to run tests with any meter that you get.

[Drew Wiley]

Not the same thing, Alan. With a real spot meter, you get a direct reading, and of exactly what you point it at. Using a phone or digital camera, you get an intervening software-analyzed interpretation. And an exposure that way which might look OK scanned and viewed on a computer screen, might not be so successful when darkroom printed.

[Alan Klein]

Not the same thing, Alan. With a real spot meter, you get a direct reading, and of exactly what you point it at. Using a phone or digital camera, you get an intervening software-analyzed interpretation. And an exposure that way which might look OK scanned and viewed on a computer screen, might not be so successful when darkroom printed.

I checked my spot reading values on my Olympus E-PL1 micro 4/3 camera. They're right on compared to my Minolta IIIf autometer. Why would a digital meter be any less accurate than a hand-held dedicated meter. A meter is a meter. Nikon and Minolta and Olympus know how to use a meter and get an accurate reading.

Of course, the spot is 2-3 degrees not 1 degree. That's effected by the lens I'm using. A bigger zoom would give a smaller spot.

Of course, the histogram and blinkie clip points designed for the digital camera will be somewhat different than the range of film. But for getting just a reading of a spot in EV, zone, or shutter and aperture settings, it's as accurate as a handheld meter.

[neil poulsen]

For field work, the Pentax Digital is just so very nice and convenient. I have a Zone VI modified digital Pentax.

But for testing and darkroom calibrations that are needed to prepare for the Zone System, I prefer the Zone VI modified Pentax analog meter, because I can obtain measurements to the "nearest" 10th stop. The digital Pentax measures only to the nearest 1/3rd stop, which is fine in the field. Both my meters were adjusted by Richard Ritter at the same time. So, they correlate well with each other.

Only Richard can really tell if a Pentax (or Sekonic?) spot meter is actually Zone VI modified. He adjusted four Pentax meters for me at one time (at a substantial price discount per meter), and one that I had purchased as a Zone VI modified, actually wasn't.

If I had only a single spot meter, then it would need to be the Pentax analog meter. But, meters can take quite a jostling in the field, so it was worth it to me to also purchase a more robust, Pentax digital meter for the field.

[Tin Can]

I bought a Sekonic Spotmeter 2008

Still works as new, I use rechargable battery

I dislike rare obsolete tools that need a tuneup

I no longer use my tube radios and don't plug them in

I also use a Sekonic Twinmate L208 I got free

Buy NEW

[Alan9940]

For field work, the Pentax Digital is just so very nice and convenient. I have a Zone VI modified digital Pentax.

But for testing and darkroom calibrations that are needed to prepare for the Zone System, I prefer the Zone VI modified Pentax analog meter, because I can obtain measurements to the "nearest" 10th stop. The digital Pentax measures only to the nearest 1/3rd stop, which is fine in the field. Both my meters were adjusted by Richard Ritter at the same time. So, they correlate well with each other.

Only Richard can really tell if a Pentax (or Sekonic?) spot meter is actually Zone VI modified. He adjusted four Pentax meters for me at one time (at a substantial price discount per meter), and one that I had purchased as a Zone VI modified, actually wasn't.

If I had only a single spot meter, then it would need to be the Pentax analog meter. But, meters can take quite a jostling in the field, so it was worth it to me to also purchase a more robust, Pentax digital meter for the field.

I'm with Neil on this one. I've owned a Zone VI Pentax Digital Spot (bought directly from Fred) for about 40 years and it has never failed me. My only "complaint" is that my old eyes have a little trouble seeing the +1/3 and +2/3 little lights next to the EV readout. That's not a fault of the meter! I, also, have a Zone VI Soligor Spot meter (my first meter) that I've been thinking about sending to Richard for a tune up, as I find it easier to see an analog needle. Yeah, it's not nearly as robust as the Pentax--especially that time it slipped out of my waste band and bounced off a rock before sinking into water--but, Fred graciously fixed it for free. I fessed up to what happened, but he was like "Hey, this kind of stuff happens to all of us."

[Drew Wiley]

Alan, I've learned to routinely have a simple little magnifying glass always in my pocket or camera bag for checking the marks on the meter, since it is a lot more convenient than pulling out a pair of reading glasses each time.

[j.e.simmons]

It was always easier for me to visualize and interpret the analog Pentax needle than the digital numerals.

[BrianShaw]

The Sekonic has a lot more capability than a Pentax digital spot meter. If that additional capability is valuable to the user then it’s a much better meter even at twice the price.

[faberryman]

The Sekonic has a lot more capability than a Pentax digital spot meter. If that additional capability is valuable to the user then it’s a much better meter even at twice the price.

I am sure the Sekonic L-858 is a fine meter if you need all that it has to offer and like the interface. Different meters appeal to different people for different reasons. Folks, we are just measuring light.