He posted pics of the camera here it seems:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...-fan-Use/page2
He posted pics of the camera here it seems:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...-fan-Use/page2
Here's a form to create a single expose fan.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...f=true&sd=true
A-C columns are simulated illumination loss and equal aperture.
F column is exposure factor in EV(take center as 1)
G column is the angle to be blocked to create a fan.
H is G/Split Ratio, you can change this ratio to create the fan with more or less leaf.
x y z is the fan axis data you can import to your 3D modeling software.
Change variable in M-P column to change the size of your own fan.
f_edge is the aperture on the edge. Rad_edge is the angle connected to the edge of fan. Default value is 60 so the actually Aperture for expose is F_edge * Rad_edge/360 for entire picture.
d is the distance from the aperture to fan surface. The fan goes larger as d growth.
theta_edge is the max angle of view, default is 70(140/2).
I am glad to say the Hypergon does fit on a Shen Hao FCL810-AC with the bag bellows.
I can't actually see the front arms on the ground glass now (too dark), but holding a flashlight at that level it appears they will just clear or will only encroach slightly.
With the front standard plumb, the spinner falls down when released without issue.
I see in the Goerz 1913 catalog it indicates: "A circular on the Hypergon is available by request." I wonder if anyone has a link to that document?
The 1913 catalog price, in 2023 dollars, would be $1,535.
Hello
which image circle we can expect with 75mm for landscape? (at F22 "wide open" and F32 "closed")
I start design an adaptation for use with Copal SINAR without vignetting...
Thanks
J.Ph.
hmmm...am imagining a (salvaged?) roller-blind shutter - positioned so that the rollers themselves are above and below (or on each side of) the lens housing, so the lens would appear to be "sunken" into this shutter, with the plane of the curtains being very close to the rear of the lens. Make sense?
Edit: ...or maybe sink it into one of these?
Some notes on the actual lens. The shipping caused some of the flanges and screws to loosen. So make sure to tightened up everything. Also, on mine the spinner is threaded slightly at an angle so the spinner wobbles a little. No big deal, just a little quality control issue.
I'll probably paint my spinner black.
Also, the image of the Shen-Hao is not exactly correct. The front standard needs to rotate back farther and the lensboard tilted forward to re-align it with the back.
The setup is as follows:
Tilt the back all the way to the limit and lock it. This is to get the bed out of the picture.
Release the sliding bed and push it all the way forward and lock it.
Attach the front standard to the farthest back screw mounting hole.
Set the rise to "20" and lock it, this centers the lens with the provided lensboard's offset hole.
Unlock the lensboard mid-axis tilt and tilt it forward just until the detent ball pops off the detent plate. Lock it there.
Now tilt the lensboard back until it is parallel to the film plane and lock it. This is easier to do with the back off as the bellows is in the way looking from the front.
Now it is all set and will focus even beyond infinity, in fact the lens can come all the way back and touch the film if not careful.
My first image is not so impressive. The center of the negative has a big foggy blob.
I wonder if that is because the spinner is not black on the inside. I'm going to do some more tests. First I'll make some images with no spinner at all then with the spinner and see.
This is an exposure 6 seconds with spinner and 1 second without:
Yep, I'd suspect that shiny spinner.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
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