Is tray development the best way to avoid scratches? What DON'T you like about it?

[Alan9940]

What's a CliffsNotes description of his method (if possible)?

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I'm reading and considering.

One agitation cycle consists of: up to right or left with about 45 degree tilt, down, up opposite direction of first with tilt (I should mention that you want to let the chemistry drain for a couple of seconds on both tilts), down, then straight up and down. I add a twist at the end whereby I pick the holders up an inch or two, then let them drop to mitigate bubbles.

Nothing wrong with tray development, once you've mastered the technique. This was the only way I developed 4x5 and 8x10 for about 20 years, but then I got a Jobo and Expert Drums. As Sal intimated to, at that point is when I discovered how unevenly my sheet film was being developed. I used one tray size larger than my film, as many recommend, but still got higher density along one or more edges. Never remember getting any scratches so I must have had that part of the technique nailed. The only reason the Jobo is not my only method of film development is because one cannot employ techniques such as minimal or stand agitation. I really like the results I get with Pyrocat-HD agitated every 3 - 4 minutes; negatives with such pronounced edge effects that you should be careful handling them in fear of cuts!

[Tin Can]

My fingers are not the greatest, air tools, motorcycles and weapons. Ex NRA. CC

I tried shuffle. Cannot do it.

I tried baggies. They worked!

Tried lots of thing to process sheet film. 35 mm very easy. 120 not so easy.

My absolute favorite is 2X3 sheet as I use a rare 'waffle' insert that holds 12 films bent slightly

Once loaded with cap on it never sees light and dries in the tin can

Pics coming shortly of waffle thing

somebody should make them

[Drew Wiley]

Don't have time at the moment to go into the details of my own tray shuffle method. But I get superb evenness of development, even with fussy color separation negs or coordinate masks which have to be very precisely matched and free of surge marks, streaks, or uneven fbf. I only use the Jobo hand-inversion drums relative to 120 and roll film. The sheet film kind take too much time to fill and drain. My color paper drums are a superior design and way faster in that respect; but I don't use them for film anymore. Guess I could if was I was forced to do C-41 or E6 sheet film dev at home; but it's avail 15 min away right down the freeway at Underdog Film Lab, including 8x10 film size; 120 and 4x5 film processing even closer when I happen to be in that neighborhood.

[Vaughn]

Jobo Expert Drums (3005 and 3006) on a Unicolor motor base. Takes up the space of two 8x10 trays. Does what I want, where and when I want to do it. I have spent months of hours in a dark room tray processing 4x5 -- still do it for 11x14, but do not miss it much.

For double sided x-ray film or rough-bottomed trays, a piece of glass on the bottom of the tray will help.

[Ben Calwell]

In more than 30 years of tray developing sheet film, I’ve had scratched film one time. It works for me. I don’t mind standing in complete darkness while shuffling sheets. In fact, I like it. Starting out, I used metal sheet film holders in tanks. Had trouble with surge patterns in areas of smooth tonality. Switched to trays, which gives me pristine negs.

[Jim Noel]

Doing a single sheet in a tray is the best way to eliminate scratches. In my experience, x-ray film needs to be developed this way. Tubes are an option for scratch-free development as are tanks/hangers. The latter, though, requires quite a bit of experience to achieve even development. Truth is, all options have up/down sides.

I agree

[Drew Wiley]

Certain EU sheet films have sharper edges n' corners and softer less protected emulsions than the better Kodak and Ilford films, so are more easily scratched or scuffed.

[Alan9940]

Had trouble with surge patterns in areas of smooth tonality.

When I first started out with tanks & hangers, I got pretty bad surge marks from the holes along the bottom of the hanger. Over the years and through a bit of experience, I eventually settled into a slower, smoother agitation cycle which greatly reduced that issue. I can sometimes see some faint indication of surge marks in the even tonality of blue sky (B&W landscapes), but I have a trick for that: turn the negative around when inserting into the hanger such that the sky area is at the top. I've found that any faint marks get lost in the mixed tonality of a foreground.

[Fred L]

There is no best

I use trays in full dark or safe light

I prefer Gas Burst

Are you using nitrogen for the burst ? Years ago I picked up a nitrogen regulator (iirc) but never got around to trying to figure out how to make a plenum for the bubbles. My volume is low so maybe not worth the headache ?

[Drew Wiley]

Not just a headache, but like other tank methods, require a large amount of developer volume at a time. You really need a lot of film volume to justify it.