Dry Mount Tissue

[Drew Wiley]

xkaes - I don't know what Sheridan is like, but in the little cowboy town I grew up in, thumbacks were what naughty children placed on the chair of temporary school teachers brought in from the city.

And Sal, "perfectly flat"? That would apply only to a rather small inkjet print held down by the window mat. And even then, the backing board might warp with humidity changes,
along with the print itself. Never say never. But if it works for the size prints you are dealing with, great. It sure doesn't work for big ones (like 30X40 inch ones).

[Sal Santamaura]

...Sal, "perfectly flat"? That would apply only to a rather small inkjet print held down by the window mat. And even then, the backing board might warp with humidity changes,
along with the print itself. Never say never. But if it works for the size prints you are dealing with, great. It sure doesn't work for big ones (like 30X40 inch ones).

No change in the six months since I replied to this thread. Inkjet prints I've made up through ones on 13x19 paper, whether stored in boxes or taped to backer mat board, under a window mat and framed, remain perfectly flat. They're on Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta Satin, although the 8-1/2x11 tests on a variety of other papers I've also made remain perfectly flat in a box. Note that our RH here varies radically from season to season, running from near 90% in some summer conditions to below 10% during cold northeast winter spells when the heat is on. Prints of 30x40 inches, whether gelatin silver or inkjet, are not anything I have any interest in or experience making.

[Drew Wiley]

Well, those are reasonably small, so their acceptable behavior is what I'd expect. But what works in one climate well, might not in another. I used to deliberately farm out framed samples of various prints to different climates, and keep track over ten or twenty years. That might not be a realistic option anymore. Hard to say if I'm going to last another 20. But microclimates are the name of the game here. We've got cold foggy summers here; but it can be 60 degrees warmer just 15 miles inland. True tropical climates are the most difficult when it comes to framing; just keeping the bugs out takes some finesse.

[esearing]

any thoughts about using Drytac on 11x14 or 12x20 mounting FB prints to gator board (same size as trimmed print)? Gator board would then be loosely tacked to mat board for future removal if needed. This creates a drop shadow without need for an over matte but have to use spacers in the frame to keep the print away from the glass.

I've done it once but still unsure about gatorboard used by the framer.

[Drew Wiley]

Traditional Gator won't work. Even with hi-tack cold adhesive sheets it needs to be sanded first anyway due to the presence of phenolic resin. You might look into Mighty Core or Ultramount if you want a premium board with a paper liner. (Gator offers more than one kind of product now; but I was assuming you were referring to the original version, which is lined with wood pulp fiber made inert through incorporation with phenolic resin.)

[Tin Can]

I have a Sintra board mount 4X5 ft photo which was biggest in one flat box they would ship

Not printed on Sintra, but matte photo paper glued to sintra by Pros

Stay tuned

I just got it in frame on wall

[esearing]

Traditional Gator won't work. Even with hi-tack cold adhesive sheets it needs to be sanded first anyway due to the presence of phenolic resin. You might look into Mighty Core or Ultramount if you want a premium board with a paper liner. (Gator offers more than one kind of product now; but I was assuming you were referring to the original version, which is lined with wood pulp fiber made inert through incorporation with phenolic resin.)

My bad - framer referred to it as Gator board but it is merely a foam filled plastic covered base material she uses for Lithographs and other paper mounts like watercolors and inkjet prints. She has been in business for 30+ years so if things were failing she would know. The print and mount has held up in a bathroom for over a year with no signs of warping but the frame is well sealed.

[Peter Lewin]

Down to my last 5 sheets of buffermount. I see the recommendation for Drytac Trimount which I can get from B&H. The accompanying B&H text says it is recommended for RC prints. Does it work well for silver gelatin fiber based prints? Anything special I should know for mounting those? (I have lots of experience with buffer mount and color mount, this will be something new.)

[Doremus Scudder]

Down to my last 5 sheets of buffermount. I see the recommendation for Drytac Trimount which I can get from B&H. The accompanying B&H text says it is recommended for RC prints. Does it work well for silver gelatin fiber based prints? Anything special I should know for mounting those? (I have lots of experience with buffer mount and color mount, this will be something new.)

Peter,

BufferMount is available in rolls if you don't mind cutting your own sheets. That's what I do now. Just Google search; I found several.
Trimount should be similar to ColorMount, if I'm not mistaken.

Best,

Doremus

[Tin Can]

I have a good supply of NOS Dry Mount

Cheap

as I bought when offered

right here on our For Sale Pages

none for sale