field processing and contact printing wet negs?

[DLee]

I'm trying to get back into 4X5 and want to try some field developing for a variety of reasons. Note: I've been away from large negative processing for quite a while.

Here's my primary question; if I process the film with a short wash, can I make a contact print with the wet negative, then keep the negative wet until proper washing and drying can be done?

Would it help to have the paper wet as well?

Do you think the emulsion will just become more and more sensitive as the wet time extends?

Thanks,

Dennis

[Daniel Stone]

Wet emulsions are more prone to damage. Best to be kept dry once processed. Dry surface to wet surface, somethings eventually going to peel away. No bueno.
Drip dry negs, they can be re-washed and re-fixed once you're back home for more archival standards.
I tried processing in the hotel room during 3 week road trip some years back. This was with rollfilm too. Wasn't enjoyable. Added to stress of journey. Learn to trust your metering technique. If you don't, burn some film and practice til you're confident.
I've processed film shot 18-24mos prior to processing. Not ideal, but the negatives still look great despite the delay in the time between shooting and processing.

-Dan

[DLee]

Wet emulsions are more prone to damage. Best to be kept dry once processed. Dry surface to wet surface, somethings eventually going to peel away. No bueno.
Drip dry negs, they can be re-washed and re-fixed once you're back home for more archival standards.
I tried processing in the hotel room during 3 week road trip some years back. This was with rollfilm too. Wasn't enjoyable. Added to stress of journey. Learn to trust your metering technique. If you don't, burn some film and practice til you're confident.
I've processed film shot 18-24mos prior to processing. Not ideal, but the negatives still look great despite the delay in the time between shooting and processing.

-Dan

Thanks Dan, appreciate the straightforward answer, that makes a lot of sense.

If I'm doing a quick dry at any point should I use Photoflo or avoid it? I cannot remember if Photoflo prevents good rewashing or not.

Dennis

[Eric Woodbury]

There once was a quick dry solution for film. We used it at the newspaper. It was probably alcohol which would displace the water in the neg and then dry quickly.

[Daniel Stone]

Thanks Dan, appreciate the straightforward answer, that makes a lot of sense.

If I'm doing a quick dry at any point should I use Photoflo or avoid it? I cannot remember if Photoflo prevents good rewashing or not.

Dennis

I used to use PhotoFlo then I just found that a 1-2min soak in straight distilled water basically did the same thing, and it was one less bit of chemistry I needed to buy/mix/maintain. But that's me.

[koraks]

keep the negative wet until proper washing and drying can be done?

A negative doesn't require all that much washing. I'm not sure why you want a short wash, and how short you're actually thinking of, but a few minutes and a few changes of water is all it takes to properly wash a negative.

As to prolonged wet times: yes, the emulsion will continue to soften, especially on films with less hardening such as Fomapan. In any case, leave the film wet for long enough and it'll slide right off the base eventually, even if it's rock hard TMAX.

I really don't see any good reasons to keep film wet for an extended period of time. Even when processing in the field, it's easy enough to bring a small tray that holds the 100-200ml it takes to submerse a 4x5" sheet and spend maybe 10 minutes tops on washing a negative.

@Eric: some people like a final wash with something like 50%-75% alcohol - pretty much any kind will do; ethanol, isopropanol etc. Drying times will be short. The solution could be reused in an outdoor/travel situation, but evidently evaporation will be an issue when using a tray for the final wash.

[DLee]

Thanks Eric, I've heard this before, I'll check into it.

d

[DLee]

I used to use PhotoFlo then I just found that a 1-2min soak in straight distilled water basically did the same thing, and it was one less bit of chemistry I needed to buy/mix/maintain. But that's me.

I like this idea, thanks Dan

[tgtaylor]

It only takes 5 minutes to archivally wash a negative, so a "short" wash won't save that much time. Back before I bought a "dew zapper" for my telescope, I bought a small hand dryer at a telescope supply store that has a cigarette lighter connector to power it. It will dry a negative in less than a minute and not too much more for RC paper.

Thomas

[DLee]

A negative doesn't require all that much washing. I'm not sure why you want a short wash, and how short you're actually thinking of, but a few minutes and a few changes of water is all it takes to properly wash a negative.

As to prolonged wet times: yes, the emulsion will continue to soften, especially on films with less hardening such as Fomapan. In any case, leave the film wet for long enough and it'll slide right off the base eventually, even if it's rock hard TMAX.

I really don't see any good reasons to keep film wet for an extended period of time. Even when processing in the field, it's easy enough to bring a small tray that holds the 100-200ml it takes to submerse a 4x5" sheet and spend maybe 10 minutes tops on washing a negative.

@Eric: some people like a final wash with something like 50%-75% alcohol - pretty much any kind will do; ethanol, isopropanol etc. Drying times will be short. The solution could be reused in an outdoor/travel situation, but evidently evaporation will be an issue when using a tray for the final wash.

Thanks for these insight Koraks. Seems the extra minutes for drying after a quick wash may be worth it. The alcohol use is very intriguing as well.

I'm going to check out your Carbon Transfer blog as well.

Cheers,

d