I would have to agree with Stephen. Although you can typically meter off the brightest part of the snow, that has direct sun shining on it, and place it on zone VIII, and that has been working great for snow, and bright white waterfalls with my meter. I am using an analog luna pro F with spot attachment set on 7.5 degrees. Knowing your meter and printing techniques are all variables, but you should be within a stop, and an exceptable print with Stephen's technique.
An incident meter will work much of the time. Sometimes, you can't use an incident meter properly -- from the subject's position -- and it may be influenced by the camera's surroundings. It's important to be certain that the incident meter is "seeing" the same lighting as the subject is receiving and, if not, to interpret the reading appropriately.
The other choice is to use a reflective meter to meter the brightest patch of snow, then open 1 2/3 to 2 stops. Metering highlights or shadows and then comparing the exposure you calculate that way, to the incident reading, is a good reality check.
The problem with metering off the snow is that it tells you nothing about the shadows. If for some reason you can't use an incident meter them my approach is to meter the brightest patch of snow and the darkest shadow where you want detail, often a shadowed tree trunk or something, and split the difference.
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