I always carry a small piece of black mat board with a rectangular hole in it. I use it for composition. The camera only gets set up after I find something with the "viewer".
I second the notion of covering the tripod legs with pipe insulation.
Put empty filmholders into their own ziploc bag with 'EMPTY' written across it in big letters. I haven't shot an empty one since I developed this sophisticated methodology. Also good for distinguishing between TRI-X and EKTA.
Use an iPod to discourage interruptions from gawkers. Actually, all you need is to be wearing the headphones; I don't know why, but people are less likely to disturb you if they think you are listening to music than if they merely see that you are involved in a complicated and error-prone LF camera set up.
Just before shooting, imagine the final print, framed, hanging on the wall. Does it really have a chance of being a keeper? If not, fold 'er up and go find the next one.
Fresh film holders have the darkslide end at the open end of the ziplock bag. When I have exposed both sheets, the holder goes back in the bag with the darkslides down. Easy to see which are which, reduces the chance of grabbing a used holder in the heat of the moment, and reduces the chance of pulling the slide by accident on exposed film because the clip wasn't turned. It doesn't help with inserting a part-used holder the wrong way round, though!
For b&w sky scenes, use a polarizer + yellow filter, rather than an Orange filter. Just as much darkening of sky is possible, with no less impact on <a href="http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/gallery/cornfield.htm" target="blank">foliage<a>. Meter through the combination of filters, before attaching to lens. Rotate the polarizer according to taste.
Instead of paying $75 for a BTZS elastic focussing cloth, I bought an XXXL black windbreaker with lining to use with my 11x14. Almost no light gets through it, and it has a sinch-string on the bottom that lets me tighten it perfectly around the back of the camera. I can put my hands in through the sleeves to use a loupe, and unzip it as much as I want to be able to breath comfortably. Best $18 investment I ever made. If it gets cold on the walk back to the car, I can also use it as a jacket!
Jumpin Judas Priest! I had hoped I'd get a few tips but I had no idea. This is really great. I'm filing a bunch of these and adopting several immediately. Thanks everyone. Don't stop.
Correction: Yellow filter has less impact on foliage. Sometimes, it will often bring out texture in leaves, compared to Orange, which often darkens foliage to look like black leather.
To store lenses on Technika-type boards, I use plastic 4x6 index card cases with pieces of foam rubber stuck on the ends. I can hold at least two smaller lenses in one case: Fuji W 125mm f/5.6 plus Caltar II-E 210mm f/6.8, or Nikkor M 300mm f/9 plus Fuji C 450mm f/12.5. I have not tried it, but if I thinned the foam a bit, I might be able to fit three. Larger lenses like a 90mm or 75mm fit in their own case with a big piece of foam at either end. I have not tried it, but it might be possible to combine a smaller lens with one of these larger lenses in each case. This system also works with Crown Graphic boards, and I suspect would work with Toyo field and other 4x4 boards as well. In paraticularly dusty areas, I have also used tupperware or similar containers to hold a lens.
Office supply stores sell a device that has two spring clamps on it. One grabs on to a part (that the manufacturer supplies) that is stuck to a computer monitor, the other holds a piece of paper. It is used by touch typists to re-type a document, or type corrections, etc. I threw away the piece that sticks to the monitor and use it to shade my lenses. I clip one side to the front standard of the camera, and use the other side to grab a small gray card that I cut down and carry in my backpack. Put the gray side down and position the arm to block the sun.
I use a Kelty Redwing backpack, which has pockets on each side to carry cross country skis. I put one of my tripod legs in the pocket, and don't have to carry it by hand. The suspension system on the Redwing is very good, so it does not cause the back to get crooked on my back. To do this I had to remove the pipe insulation from one of the tripod legs.
My backpack usually includes a small tupperware that holds a Rodenstock lens wrench, extra cable release, lens cleaning cloth, lens brush, extra Toyo 3.6 loupe, and other little extra items that may come in handy in an emergency.
I can't remember my reciprocity corrections or many of the filter factors, so I made some small cards on the computer with reciprocity corrections on one side and the filter factors on the other, using Avery computer card stock. I also made cards with the information for the focus on the near and far, move the focus 1/2 way between method (see www.largeformatphotography.info/fstop.html) on one side and exposure estimates for different lighting conditions on the other in case my light meter quits on me. The cards are laminated with self-adhesive lamination material by Avery. I carry these in my pockets and have extra copies in my backpack and in that Tupperware.
Several websites have printable millimeter scales. I attached these to my Crown Graphic and Walker Titan using two sided carpet tape so I could use the above-mentioned focusing technique. These are also laminated with that Avery self-adhesive stuff.
For a while, I developed 4x5 negatives in hangers using some Tupperware-like containers that fit just about perfectly. Much less expensive and easier to store than the rubber tanks. The tops were great for locking down the container and keeping the air out.
Hey, maybe we can put a jump direct to this thread from the homepage, so people will have access to it forever, without having to search for it.
Alternatively, I volunteer to categorize and summarize it, and it can have a link to continuing additions. (It might not happen right away, but I would get it done eventually.)
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