Weston Master 6 meter stuck 'on'

[wcwiseman]

I posted elsewhere on the net, but thought I'd have good luck here.

I have a Weston Master 6 model 560 that seems to be stuck on. Just noticed this a day or so ago - usually you have to push the little button on the side to make a reading and when released the button pops out and the meter needle stays put. Now it is just 'on', and nothing happens when I push the botton. The button has a screwdriver slot, and using a small screwdriver I have turned both clockwise and other way and it just free-wheels and doesn't change a thing. The button is "in" and won't pop out, but it doesn't seem to be in a bind because it does turn easily and seems to have a little side-to-side play in it...
I don't have any literature on it - lost manual long ago. I believe the little slotted button is supposed to be adjustable for constant on or the off position, but I'm not sure- and even if it is, turning it doesn't do anything. Please - can anyone tell me how to fix this?

I have played with it for hours and can't get the little button out. It reads light OK... just can't lock reading in or turn it off.

wcwiseman@highstream.net

[Richard Schlesinger]

The screw is to lock the needle. Usually (on mine) if you push it in slightly and give the button a quarter turn and then release it will lock the needle. When you push it in it unlocks, take a reading, then lock. Many people just used to leave the needle unlocked allthe time. There is no battery, so it doesn't hurt anything.

[Alec Jones]

These people have a great reputation for adjusting, or rebuilding Weston meters.

Quality Light Metric Company, Hollywood, CA Phone: 323-467- 2265
Fax: 323-874-0421

[Bill_1856]

Please excuse my ignorance: what's a Weston Master 6/560?

[John Cook]

Here is an interesting website for those who lived too late to own and use a Weston meter in their heyday. Although I believe a new one may yet be had, ordered direct from the factory in England.

I still have two Master V meters which I bought new in Hollywood in the 1960's. Still going strong.

A much unappreciated feature of these meters is the exposure dial, based on Edward Weston's theory that there are only seven zones - 5 due to surface pigmentation and 2 more due to the difference between the sun or key light and the sky or fill light. It coincides perfectly with Phil Davis' incident light metering technique.

If you can limit yourself to making pictures on nice, sunny days it completely replaces the zone system and is infinitely easier to use. The ease of use makes is much less accident prone.

[John Cook]

Please note: there were two Edward Westons. The Californian photographer who enjoyed nudes and green peppers. And The English inventor who created the Weston exposure meter.

[John Cook]

Duh...

I gave you everything but the web address:

http://www.westonmeter.org.uk/

[ronald moravec]

George a Quality Light Metric does a fine job with quick turn around.

[Antti Aalto]

I've had a Master V, and if the 6 is like it, then the button should come out with the groove perpendicular to the meter side. There's a website with manuals for Weston meters where I checked about the groove on a V. Here's the url.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/weston_exposure_meters/weston_exposure_meters.htm
Yours has probably just go dirt in it . I've never taken one apart, so cleaning it good might be difficult. If I recall right from the time I browsed the web for the going price when I bought mine, Weston never actually made a 6, so yours is a replica, which in this case might mean you're in luck and it might be easier to take apart and clean. The Master V has no screws but some sort of tiny nuts in the back, which to me says don't try to pry open. I'd want to be able to lock the needle to make better use of it, so if I were you I'd get my needle nose pliers out give the button a slight pull. Might as well do the trick.Hope this helps!

[d.s.]

If the Master VI is the same a the Master V which I believe it is, and you are handy then read on.

In the middle of the dial there is a thin disk with groves around the edges. This unscrews counter clockwise. It should be only finger tight but some are tighter. If so then lay a thin piece of cloth like a pillow case over the screw and gently use pliers to unscrew it.

Once unscrewed the dial will lift off. Under the dial there will be two tiny nuts ( 5/32 inch ), that sit in a slight recess. I couldn't get a socket to reach them because of the recess, so I used a stout pair of tweezers to unscrew the nuts. Once they are off, then the front cover lifts off. NOTE: There is a spring under the button that you press to change the film speed. It is VERY small and is easiley lost. (I know!). It is better to turn the meter over and remove the back from the front as the spring will stay in the button that way.

The button that you push to take a reading should slip out of it's place, allowing you to see if anything is hampering it's movement. That button actually presses against a slide that as it slides it rides up on little bumps and presses up on the needle trap, allowing the needle to move freely. When you release the button the slide moves back towards the button, and off the bumps and the trap is lowered trapping the needle where it's at.

When looking at the meter from the front , the spring that applies the pressure to the slide is to the left of the slide. (oppisite side of the button). The spring is a thin piece of bent metal.
Your problem can be as someone said, a piece of sand or dirt binding the button, or under the slide preventing it from returning and traping the needle. Or the spring that pushes against the slide is broken or has come out of it's slot.

Once one of my Master V meters did the same thing your meter is doing AFTER I took it apart and re-assembled it. I took it back apart and bent the needle trap down a little and all is well.

Re-assembly is simply in reverse order. Pay careful attention to the little spring that works the film speed button. I set it in the hole in the back of the button, and lower the back case down onto the front case. If it sits perfect then everything is good. If not then something is amis. Check it out.

When replacing the dial, spin the dial until the registration pin for the film speed clicks into it's hole, then screw the button screw back on to hold the dial in place. Before tightening check that the dial spins easily and is not in a bind. Tighten the button the rest of the way.

If you need parts, Quality Light Metric is the place to get them. I just sent two meters to them to have new cells put in them and to have them calibrated to read the same.

Hope this helps.

dee