Easy isn't it? Now that you have all this advice, what are you going to do? L
Easy isn't it? Now that you have all this advice, what are you going to do? L
Here are a 3 images of the wet side of my - relatively - new darkroom (about 4 years old now). Two connected sinks, 2' 8" deep, one 8' long, the other 4'. We have an electric instant water heater two stories up, so I have both a cold and a hot line coming in. They both go through their own set of filters, one coarse, one fine. Even though municipal water is normally pretty clear and filtered, any work on the waterline upstream of you will produce debris in the line, so I think filters are necessary - just check the aerator filters in your faucets in the bathroom or kitchen from time to time. Behind the filters the lines are diverted, one couple goes into the Intellifaucet, the other goes to a regular kitchen faucet at the left side of the sink. The Intellifaucet water then goes to two faucets on each side of the sink(s), one of them with a long hose. I have garden hose type attachments with quick connects on each of them to switch between different washers or the Jobo.
Sounds like a great setup. Here is the upper Midwest one of the benefits of 30 below is no shortage of cold water, even in summer. Your point about flow rate is important, bigger thermostatic mixing valves aren't as effective at low flow rates. My Delta thermostatic bathtub valve holds temp, but at full bathtub filling rate, 10 g / min? In my darkroom I have 2 thermostatic valves I think they are both Lawler valves, one is a Kodak, the other a Pako. These have strainers to protect the valve, I have big canister filters on hot and cold supplies for one of the valves.
No doubt if you really want to use as a temp controlled critical bath, a setup like you have is ideal.
Darkroom Sink Finally Plumbed 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Latest Darkroom Renovation 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Washing and Drying Side Sink Preinstallation by Nokton48, on Flickr
I have built this (so far) in about a year, working with a rather minimal budget. Prints are exposed and processed in the back room, on the other side, is the expansion (the washing and drying area)
After the first of the year, want to run electricals and further plumbing. Also add additional heat in the back room.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
A whole house filter is good to have. At the spigot, a screw on(garden hose type of fixture) hose with a 1 micron filter in the line helps with final filtration. Easy to do and gives the added protection as you work with negatives. Can be unscrewed and not used for rinse water for prints.
” Never attribute to inspiration that which can be adequately explained by delusion”.
Eagle Drain Tubs by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...m-budget-basin
A while back a couple of these Eagle "Drum Spill Containment Basins" arrived. It took a couple of months to receive them. I believe they are 3D printed.
I will build tables to hold them, and add drains, and plumb them to drain the water. This one will contain 25 gallons. One will hold my 16x20 Calumet Print Washer, and the other will become a low sink.
Not bad for $63 each.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
I would suggest building a water distribution panel that will allow for future changes. The likelihood of getting it exactly right (for you) the first time is not great. Besides, things change. I think it's wise to have a darkroom water shutoff (for hot and cold) before all the fancy valves, filters, etc. Copper makes for a neater install (to me) vs. pex. I use stainless steel braided flex hose to provide
I have a whole house sediment filter on my incoming house water line. I filter my darkroom water again after the temp control. In that setup, a separate hot water filter isn't needed. Might be "belt and suspenders" as I don't see much in my darkroom filter.
The effectiveness of any temperature valve will be somewhat dependent of the rest of your house plumbing. Older homes, with smaller water lines, might have more pressure variability. It's best if the water lines to your darkroom serve only the darkroom.
I remember seeing a Bob Carnie video where he showed his darkroom.
I think it's wise to have a darkroom water shutoff (for hot and cold) before all the fancy gyrations.
So is Mr. Wolf AWOL or is he digesting all this information? L
Darkrooms evolve, plumbing will change.
Sometimes plumbing is difficult to make neat. Dyno Cell 6, the big cell, contains a Cummins Mll The space is the size of my current DR, a small bedroom. Everything in this disaster removable ASAP. Big water requirements for a water brake dynamometer
........Those are junk.
Here are the dream Test Cells, I used almost everything they show in much smaller rooms.
As foreman I had to force my men to expedite and not make Art. The 3rd shift man was fantastic at Artful plumbing. The last pic is a montage, my Art...
Below is a Cummins MII year 2000 and a Ford
1-DSCN0002 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
3-DSCN0275 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
4-DSCN0282 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
2-#1bwpana by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
Tin Can
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