Sorry to be sarcastic, but OMG if you can expose a sheet of Ektachrome properly, you can surely cut a hole in a lensboard.
Sorry to be sarcastic, but OMG if you can expose a sheet of Ektachrome properly, you can surely cut a hole in a lensboard.
I've got a Calumet 540 that uses the same boards as the C1, and I also drill the aluminum lensboards using a circle cutter like the General Tools one mentioned above. That's a great solution ONLY if you have a drill press, also you must securely anchor the lensboard to the drill press table; it's way too much to safely handhold IMO. If you don't have a drill press, drill small holes just inside the periphery of the desired hole, then finish using a Dremel or even a curved file.
I have also made several perfectly serviceable lensboards for my 540 using 1/8" aircraft plywood, sold in modelling (hobby) stores. The only challenge in making a Calumet lensboard is routing the little groove in the back; and a drill press with a Dremel bit works well for that if you don't have a router table. I've used my plywood boards with rather heavy lenses (10" f/4.5) and never a light leak.
The only challenge in making a Calumet lensboard is routing the little groove in the back;
For the tool-challenged, be aware that the expressed ridge is not needed. Put a thin layer of flocking over the inside of the board and be happy. It also blacks out the rest of the board very nicely..
I've drilled both wood and aluminium lensboards with a simple hole saw. Take it slow and careful, and it's not difficult at all. Sometimes you'll need to trim the hole a little afterwards; I have used a file on the aluminium and a knife on the wooden ones.
Not difficult at all.
"Do you think my RotoZip would be an acceptable tool to do this, or would I be inviting far more trouble than its worth?"
RotoZip can work very well for soft materials like drywall, but since it uses the flutes to cut, it's difficult to cut harder materials like wood...particularly if you're trying to cut a hole. The tool wanders easily and the bit flexes.
I was trying to cut 8" holes in 1/2" MDF (wood/glue), and the tool jumped about 8" and bumped my knuckle. A Rotozip cuts skin very well, and I have a scare to prove it. Don't be as stupid as me.
Jay Wenner
I have made quite a few lens boards over the past 2 years and have used hobby shop plywood for all of them.
I have tried various methods of of cutting the hole and found that cutting in the lathe gives me by far the neatest and most accurate hole. By the time one considers the time spent filing, sanding, or whatever is required to clean up holes made by other methods, the lathe is also fastest.
If you have a friend who has a lathe (either wood or metal) do yourself a favour and buy him (or her) coffee in eachange for cutting the hole
I've only cut one lens board, and used a circle cutter that looked identical to Pete's. Mine came from RS Components in the UK, luckily I had it left over from a previous project nothing to do with photography. I held down the Toyo field lensboard while using a hand drill, scary as it pulls away from your hand. It really does need clamping down. I cut first from one side, then finished on the reverse. It made a neater hole than the holes my cameras previous owner had comissioned in other boards.
I have tried various methods of of cutting the hole and found that cutting in the lathe...
I have a little bitty Unimat lathe, not large enough I think. But now you've got me trying to envision how to mount a piece of plywood six inches across so you can turn it on any size lathe. And I'm stumped...
???
Alan,
I have an 8" Southbend and I made a faceplate for it (for other reasons) that replaces the chuck. You could even make a faceplate from a piece of stout plywood and a wooden dowel if your Unimat will swing the lensboard.
I mark the centre of the lens board and use the dead centre in the tailstock to hold the lensboard against the faceplate while I secure it. If you make a wooden faceplate you can secure the lensboard with woodscrews and washers if you don't spin it too fast.
Grind a toolbit to suit the diameter you have to cut and then cut your lens hole. I prefer to cut the hole small and then open it out until it JUST fits the step on the retaining ring.
CJ,
Thanks. My lathe experience is rather limited. You have expanded my vision!
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