Durst Lafan Voltage

[mpirie]

You could always plug it into a 110VAC supply.....if it spins up, fine, if not, then you'll need to find a 220VAC supply.

Just make sure the chassis is earthed and use an RCD in case there's a short somewhere.

Mike

[Drew Wiley]

The plug configuration won't allow you to plug it into 110 - that's the whole point of it being different!

[ic-racer]

ic-r:
I do have 220 available. I am using 110 for the rest of the enlarger (it's only a light bulb/condenser head and a timer...) Lifts and focus are manual.

I can wire up the Lafan carefully to test it. But based on comments here, it appears that it is designed for 220V. Unfortunately there are no markings on the unit to identify the power requirement.

Et toi, Ginette? Any thoughts?

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1496663

[mpirie]

The plug configuration won't allow you to plug it into 110 - that's the whole point of it being different!

True, but there are ways around that.

Mike

[Ginette]

ic-r:
I do have 220 available. I am using 110 for the rest of the enlarger (it's only a light bulb/condenser head and a timer...) Lifts and focus are manual.

I can wire up the Lafan carefully to test it. But based on comments here, it appears that it is designed for 220V. Unfortunately there are no markings on the unit to identify the power requirement.

Et toi, Ginette? Any thoughts?

Do you have only the LAFAN or a power supply like the Durst EST301
What I have in the past was a Durst EST301 for the Colorhead CLS301.
The power supply, the head and the timer was on 120V but the LAFAN was 220 with the right connector on the back of the power supply.

Maybe you can find an used power supply EST301 on 120V to run your fan. I remember plugging only the fan on the power supply and it work.
The EST301 also exist in a 220V version, all the outlets are 220V.

[Luis-F-S]

Ginette, your EST 301 looked like mine when I had it. The Lafan was 220 and plugged into the EST. Not sure where the OP is going with this? You can always get a 120 v fan and run it all the time. The Lafan works when the enlarger is turned on and stays on until the head is cooled down.

[Ginette]

Ginette, your EST 301 looked like mine when I had it. The Lafan was 220 and plugged into the EST. Not sure where the OP is going with this? You can always get a 120 v fan and run it all the time. The Lafan works when the enlarger is turned on and stays on until the head is cooled down.

Yes this is exactly what I (tried to) said! LAFAN is 220, the EST301 is available in 120 version and the LAFAN 220V plug into the back. So maybe William can found an EST 301 power supply in 120V and run the LAFAN that he already have in 120V via the Power supply. It will run till the power supply will be turned OFF.

[Drew Wiley]

I've refurbished both CLS301 and CLS300 coloreads. With older units the power supply itself is often the weak link and can be more trouble to try to repair than it's worth. The voltage regulation these provide seems to be no better than straight line voltage in many cases (a good volt meter can be used to test that possibility when in doubt), and the other primary function of the power supply consists of relatively redundant bells and whistles conveniences like automatic on n off of the fan based on the exposure button. But that can be completely bypassed if you just manually turn the fan on before exposure, and off afterwards. I use a simple footswitch to do this, with the fan plugged into its own 220V outlet. The rest of my L184 system - colorhead, column and focus motors, all run on 115V, so have been rewired for a direct 115V outlet. In other words, the power supply itself has been completely bypassed and is now in a junk box somewhere in the shop. Even the 2000W 240V colorhead can simply have the bulbs switched out to 115V lower wattage and be plugged into direct 115V, bypassing the power supply completely. In the case of that unit, the huge fan was wholly separate from the colohead to begin with, and connected with four hoses. Got rid of my 2000W unit after I built a custom additive 1500W 115V head that runs far cooler, with much better color to boot. All of this is pretty simple if you have a simple continuity detector for tracing specific wires and some basic wiring experience. I like to use truck wire for its high heat resistance.