But when you try to sell it, nobody is likely to pay “what it is worth.” I’m not sure that such simple arithmetic is how to compute “worth”... whatever that really is.Originally Posted by Mark Sawyer
But when you try to sell it, nobody is likely to pay “what it is worth.” I’m not sure that such simple arithmetic is how to compute “worth”... whatever that really is.
My first thought was that the lens was nothing special. I was wrong.
I don't know whether it makes sense to use it, but it is at least an interesting curiosity. Four elements in four groups, convertible. See http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/...lensak_10.html for details.
worth? in non working condition... weigh the shutter without the lens. subtract 35% of the weight... then multiply that by $1.65... thats what it is worth as scrap brass!
worth vs value.... in working condition using that lens n shutter... the photos have potential value which in turn can be the worth of the lens generated by its use.
a broken down taxi is worthless sitting in the garage!
as a decoration... its priceless!... but so is garbage.
rebuilding the iris is possible as long as you have all the blades n they are not missing the anchor pins. the end with the slot goes on another pin that moves the blades, hopefully those pins are still intact. also the blades must be flat n undistorted or they will never operate properly even if you do get them back in the correct order.
being you gave up on repairing it, your options are, use it wide open with waterhouse stops, or put the cells in another shutter or make a nice display stand for the mantel.
btw its actual worth is what someone is willing to pay for it... ebay is the real proving ground.
I purchased a Wollensak Regular shutter in very much the same condition, confident that I could re-stack the dislocated aperture blades (aka iris leaves). I couldn’t. Some blades were missing, some were crinkled, some had torn ends which wouldn’t stay on the studs anymore.
I considered the same options helpfully mentioned on this thread (find a parts shutter with a working aperture mechanism, shoot wide open, make Waterhouse stops, or re-shutter into a newer shutter). I was lucky enough to find a good replacement through the forum. If I hadn’t, I would have tried Waterhouse stops with heavy black paper.
Good luck with your lens!
So many good thoughts here, thanks to all. Will explore moving the glass bits onto another shutter, or perhaps do a test shooting wide open. In all honesty with my current workload etc, this will remain a side project. But will chime in if I make any progress. Thanks to all for your thoughts and suggestions.
Cheers!
Seems to be four elements in two groups, a Rapid Rectilinear. The photo of the separated elements is misleading, but the description describes it as "composed of two combinations of imported glass each one consisting of a crown and flint accurately ground and polished and cemented together." (And it's not entirely "symmetrical", as the front has a focal length of 28.5 inches while the rear is 20 inches.)
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
RR’s can be very respectable lenses to use. I used a B&L RR quite a bit in the past. But I didn’t know they were convertible.
They are. But I have to wonder which is wrong, the cross-section or the text.
I'd first look for any sign of cement failure...
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Easy for you to type and me to read. But I don't have the lens to look at. Do you?
Counting reflections will answer the question if the cement is still good.
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