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Thread: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

  1. #11

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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt View Post
    Fred Picker had very good instructions, but I can’t remember where.

    From memory:
    1) Flatten dry prints between two mat boards in the press.
    2) Dry the mount boards in the press.
    3) Tack mounting tissue onto back of photo.
    4) Put photo with tissue between two pieces of release paper, and put in the press. (I wrap to mount boards with release paper and use the same release paper over and over. The boards keep it from being damaged.) The mounting tissue will now be fused to the back of the print. If you're off, some will ooze out onto the release paper, and if you miss the very edge, you'll still be ok.
    5) Trim the print. The result will be a print with the back completely covered with adhesive tissue.
    6) Position the print on the backing board and tack in one place.
    7) Put the print in the press between to sheets of release paper for the desired time.
    8) Take the print out and immediately flex both corners towards you a bit.
    9) Place press under weight until it cools.
    Those instructions are for presses like a Seal that have a metal platen on the bottom and a foam or rubber platen on the top.
    However, these instructions are incorrect for a press like an Ademco that has a metal platen on top and the bottom!

  2. #12
    Photographer
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    You need to learn to edit your work, Drew. One loooong paragraph is unreadable! :-).



    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Wiley View Post
    Release paper is siliconized. Never use wax paper or other kitchen papers; and never use silicon paper adjacent to the face (emulsion) of the print. Both mounting board and the print need to be briefly pre-dried in the press, with the press closed but not tightly locked. Two sheets of appropriate dimension museum board (in addition to the mount itself) should be on hand for all steps of the sequence, and themselves first pre-dried about 30 sec (depends on the amibient humidity - you'll typically see steam going off). Be careful not to overdry the print itself or the emulsion might get brittle. After that, my proven protocol, which I've taught others, is significantly different than what you'll read in Picker, AA, or the traditional mfg manuals on the subject. I happen to prefer Colormount, which needs a press temp of around 200F. Allow ample warm-up time, and always keep the press closed to retain the correct amount of heat. After pre-drying the print, which will somewhat flatten it, I take a trimmed sheet of Colormount, which is sold oversized, slightly larger than the image area, but a tad smaller than the full nominal paper size. This is briefly tacked to the center back of the print at just one point using a tacking iron at the medium heat setting, with a bit of release paper between it and the tissue, for about 15 sec. Then take a sheet of siliconized release paper distinctly bigger than the print, cover the tissue tacked onto the print, place these between the two sheets of matboard previously mentioned, to cushion the print from the hot press platen above and the foam rubber below. Put the sandwich in the press and close it to full tightness (assuming the tightness knobs on the top of the press have been correctly adjusted in advance - things will feel film if this is correct, without the press being too hard to close shut). After 30 sec pull out the combined sandwich. Allow the print to cool for several minutes before peeling off the release paper from the tissue. After this, trim the print to the exact size or composition you have in mind. When that is done, precisely place the print in the position you want it to be on the mounting board (itself pre-dried). Measure if necessary (it will be necessary). Briefly tack the print at the center into final position using the iron, onto the face of the print itself, gently with no release sheet in this instance. Then put your mount and print between the two larger sheets of board, insert them in the press, and clamp it firm for 40 sec or so. Pull it it out and place your mounted print under a flat weight for awhile. I use a large heavy sheet of plate glass. Colormount achieves its permanent bond while cooling, so this is a vital step. After a bit of practice, you develop a rhythm doing this and it becomes second-hand. But it's actually easier, more precise, and more predictable than the ordinarily published method.... What Interneg just posted previously is also important, so I won't repeat it myself. "Dwell time" is the time the print sandwich
    remains in the press: slightly low temp, and you use a little longer time, slightly high less. Colormount can be used from about 180F to around 250, but that upper range can be risky to some emulsions. Other types of tissue might
    have different temp parameters. Old presses might need to be tested for thermostat performance or thermometer accuracy; or just practice on unimportant prints to see if things work predictably.
    Keith Pitman

  3. #13
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Yeah, thanks ... I know I should have numbered the steps, but am in a bit of a hurry to get some prints out of the washer as soon as there's a break in the news. Need to find out tomorrow's weather - a shoot day.

  4. #14
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sawyer View Post
    As a former high school photography teacher whose students used a dry mount press, I can convey with a high degree of confidence that re-heating Jack-in-the-Box tacos in a dry mount press is not a "best practice"...
    I have used my press for some odd things. Like flattening the back of this 1937 Gibson. I also used it to flatten an vinyl LP from Amazon that was stuffed in a box too small....didn't work, the LP melted
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #15
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Salomon View Post
    Those instructions are for presses like a Seal that have a metal platen on the bottom and a foam or rubber platen on the top.
    However, these instructions are incorrect for a press like an Ademco that has a metal platen on top and the bottom!
    Good to know, Bob. I have a Seal.
    “You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
    ― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know

  6. #16
    Joe O'Hara's Avatar
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    I used a digital oven thermometer to check and set the temperature on my press.

    Before doing so I verified it was pretty close to accurate by putting the probe into boiling
    distilled water. It was within 1 deg. F of the expected value.

    My press is ancient. I removed its thermostat control and replaced it with an electronic
    temperature control kit (comprising thermocouple, controller, and solid-state relay). I could
    never get the old rusty mechanical controller to act predictably. This setup, once calibrated
    with the oven thermometer, is spot on.
    Where are we going?
    And why are we in this handbasket?


    www.josephoharaphotography.com

  7. #17
    Mark Sawyer's Avatar
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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Quote Originally Posted by faberryman View Post
    Does it really need to be said: using a dry mount press is not rocket science...
    Oh, you haven't seen some of our high school rocket scientists. Something as basic as a hot press with two big flat surfaces offers so many creative possibilities...
    "I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."

  8. #18

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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    I recently picked up a used Ademco 2226. Actually, picked up is a figure of speech since they're not a small machine. I think it weighs around 300 lb and ended up having to break it down into three pieces to get it into my workspace.

    Anyway, I found David Vestal's "The Art of Black and White Enlarging" to be a great help. Not a huge section on dry mounting but enough and well written. There's a bunch of Youtube videos as well. Like was mentioned earlier, it's not rocket science but you do have to follow the steps as well as the temperatures recommended for your mounting adhesive. I use release board rather than release paper but that's just my preference.

    Good luck
    Dave

  9. #19

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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    In the good ol' days we had Seal MT-5 tissue, which bonded in the press. I can only find Colormount now, which says in the instructions that the bond forms while it cools. I think it uses a cooler temperature, too. Yes?

    While I have experienced no problems, how is this different? Should I be doing anything special?

    Fred Picker, Richard Ritter and I used to laugh about selling "Zone VI Bricks" for weighing down prints after they came out of the press. Butcher-paper wrapped plain old bricks. $29.95. Each. And you should have at least 2. I made my own and saved shipping costs. Besides, we laughed about it but never actually did it.
    Bruce Barlow
    author of "Finely Focused" and "Exercises in Photographic Composition"
    www.brucewbarlow.com

  10. #20

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    Re: Dry Mount Press Best Practices

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Salomon View Post
    Those instructions are for presses like a Seal that have a metal platen on the bottom and a foam or rubber platen on the top.
    However, these instructions are incorrect for a press like an Ademco that has a metal platen on top and the bottom!
    Bob.

    May I ask what the different procedure would be with an Ademco?

    Thanks!

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