Efke 8x10

[Luca Merlo]

I have recently bought a 8x10 camera and I need now to purchase the first batch of film. Due to the limited availability I have to restric my choice to the Efke 25 and Efke 100 film. Considering that I will shot mostly landscape, what film do you suggest me to start with?

[Mike Davis]

You will likely want 100. 25 can work (I've used other 25 ISO film in 6x6 and 6x7), but the 100 speed is much more general purpose. You don't really need to worry about grain with 8x10 (unless you plan on 4-5 foot enlargements). So, the 100 would make sense.

Mike

[Aaron van de Sande]

Read everything you can about film-shuffling technique. Both films scratch easily and it takes some practice not to scratch it.

[Michael Kadillak]

My recommendation for the first box of film with 8x10 would be to use the highest ASA film possible to not be in an exposure condition where the wind in the landscape can be a spoiler.

Both Efke PL100 and Efke 25 are really great films that you need to explore later on, but I would without hesitation recommend Kodak T Max 400 for your first go at it. Beside the additional film speed that can be a godsend, the film soups marvelously well in any developer, has fabulous reciprocity characteristics and is more scratch resistant in the darkroom than the Efke.

For 8x10 I use PL100, T Max 400 and Ilford FP4.

The big groung glass is like a big screen television. Have fun!

Cheers!

[Donald Hutton]

I agree with Michael - Efke 100 is not easy film to develop without scratches, and I also think that you will find a faster film much more convenient to learn with. Tmax400 is fabulous stuff and if you feel like saving some cash, I also like the J&C400.

[John Kasaian]

I think Luca is saying that wherever he is working, only Efke films are available at reasonable prices.

I like both 25 and 100, but I agree that the 100 ISO Efke will give great results for most landscapes.

As for scratching, just be careful--- or develop your film in a drum or tube instead of trays.

Efke is a great film to start out with, since its likely you'll probably end up with preferring it anyway!

Cheers!

[Luca Merlo]

Thanks to all of you. John put it down clearly. The only feasible possibility is here either Efke or Foma film. So I will start with the highest ASA available that is 100 in this case. I will develop in drum with an hardener fixer so I think that it will be sufficient to prent the film from getting scratched.

Ciao and thanks to all of you for the encouragement.

[Michael Kadillak]

I have always been in a fog when it comes to our friends in Europe and LF sheet film costs.

All of the big mail order houses ship overseas and the costs for me seem to be very competitive. I suspect that some form of tax is collected on the other end but Luca should be starting from the same price reference point. For 50 sheets of PL100 the cost is $110 US. For 50 sheets of T Max 400 the base cost is $146 from Badger and others.

If I were to be forced to one film for all of my photography it would be T Max 400 because I feel that it is the best all around film produced today. It has a short toe, builds density on a straight line to the moon, responds to every developer imaginable and can be shot at a full 400 speed with some developers like Pyrocat HD. And yes as long as the differential is tax, I feel that it is worth the extra cost.

Am I missing something here? Help me out.

[tim atherton]

"Am I missing something here? Help me out."

Shipping costs to many parts of Europe can be rather high. Add on 17 - 25% VAT + often import duty as well (usually to the total cost including shipping) and it quickly adds up (yes you will be paying VAT on any film bought in Europe, but you would have to add that to the US price). Cheapest shipping is probably goiung to be around $30.00 -40.00

I eneded up ordering from B&H to Portugal once (after a bag with film went "missing") - a $120.00 box of film became around $190.00+

[tim atherton]

Anyone else stock this in the US? I see J&C is out