Looking for a film that can be shot at low asa ( 1 or 2 )

[1erCru]

I’m still a novice shooting LF and recently drew a liking to an artist who shoots still life
Who supposedly shoots 5-6 minute studio exposures at ISO 1-2.

What kind of film can handle this? I’ve been liking the look of some longer exposures I’ve taken
( reciprocity became a factor ).

Can I just play around with something like TMAX 100 at such low asa?

[Vaughn]

I suggest using TMax100 or a 125 ASA film (at their ASA) and use the amount of light and f/stop to control your exposure time. my exposure times for my redwood work with FP4+ (Ilford) can be 30 minutes at f64 or f90.

PS. "Using the amount of light" -- reduce wattage, move lights farther away from subject, etc

[LabRat]

Paper negs about in that ISO range...

Steve K

[Denny]

I would use neutral density filters.

[Greg]

LEE Filter: 100 x 100mm Big Stopper 3.0 (10 stop) Neutral Density Filter
Runs around $130.00. Quality is excellent. When I got the filter, I shot two 4x5 negatives, one without the filter and the other one with the filter in front of the lens. Enlarged both negatives to 8x10s using a glass negative carrier, and you couldn't tell the difference. Since I contact print my LF and ULF negatives, have no qualms about using the filter. Now if I were making 20x24 enlargements, would certainly determine if the image was degraded by the filter.

[6x6TLL]

LEE Filter: 100 x 100mm Big Stopper 3.0 (10 stop) Neutral Density Filter
Runs around $130.00. Quality is excellent. When I got the filter, I shot two 4x5 negatives, one without the filter and the other one with the filter in front of the lens. Enlarged both negatives to 8x10s using a glass negative carrier, and you couldn't tell the difference. Since I contact print my LF and ULF negatives, have no qualms about using the filter. Now if I were making 20x24 enlargements, would certainly determine if the image was degraded by the filter.

I recently read an online review/test of many different ND filters, including Lee, Schneider, Tiffen, Cokin and others. What I took away was that many of the more extreme ND filters have a very definite color cast to them, it's not subtle at all. Maybe not as much of an issue for B&W, but definitely try before you buy for color work IMHO.

[Two23]

The only thing I know of are the Lane dry plates. They are ISO 1. I shoot these a lot.


Kent in SD

[Nodda Duma]

The only thing I know of are the Lane dry plates. They are ISO 1. I shoot these a lot.


Kent in SD

Kent's been doing some fine work... he's actually shooting my plates more than I am (not hard to do with my schedule as of late).

Batch 20 plates and newer are running ISO 2, ever since I tweaked the recipe to bring the speed up. I just made a new batch (#24) and need to test to see where they're at, but I expect them to be ISO/ASA 2 as well.

Cheers,
Jason

[1erCru]

I’m pretty sure the artist used dry plates. Well this is all new to me.

Does a dry plate fit into a standard 4x5 holder?

How does one develope a dry plate?

[Two23]

I’m pretty sure the artist used dry plates. Well this is all new to me.

Does a dry plate fit into a standard 4x5 holder?

How does one develope a dry plate?

No, you need a plate holder. You can scrounge ebay for an older one (they seem to be scarce lately) or buy a new one from Chamonix. I've been sending mine to Blue Moon in Portland, but do intend to begin doing my own at some point as it's getting expensive. Looks like tray develop using a red safe light is the best way, but hopefully someone can give you specifics. I'd like to see someone do a how-to video from start to finish and post it somewhere.

I'll mention that I've restored a c.1925 5x7 field camera, and there are plenty of plate holders around for that. I intend to shoot a couple more tomorrow.


Kent in SD