Sinar Norma CLA, Europe?

[Daniel Unkefer]

My collection of Norma cleaning supplies by Nokton48, on Flickr

It might help us to know what parts you think need specific servicing? I would say get started carefully and see what happens. I've never been able to damage anything so far. I would not start removing any screws until you are pretty confident to proceed.

I ended up going with brown Automotive grease. Lube with Moly Sulfide is what he recommends. Perhaps others will chime in. I believe he uses the silicon spray to lubricate the Sinar Rails. A good idea I think. You will use a lot of the contact cleaner, use in good ventilation. If you still have residue use the Acetone. Also nasty stuff. And a roll of paper towels very important. The PB Blaster can help loosen stuck together parts. Wear nitrile rubber gloves; don't get that stuff on your hands.

He shows pictures of both types of bar caps. When you have it apart you can see. I've myself just cleaned the slide mechanism with out even taking it apart and that has been good enough so far. You can see the buildup under the bottom side of the sliding side rail

Original Tin of Sinar Norma Grease by Nokton48, on Flickr

Sinar Norma included a tin of grease attached to the inside cover of the instruction book. Here is an old tin and as you can see it is blackish/brownish, the black I believe is the Moly Sulfide.

Hope this helps.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Here is the original Sinar Norma Instruction Manual. Yahoo! and thanks to Camera Eccentric!

https://www.cameraeccentric.com/stat...fs/sinar_1.pdf I would start by studying how to take it apart into the basic component pieces.

See page 11 and 12 which talks about maintenence and lubrication. They suggest "white petrol" which I think is what you put in camping cooking stoves.

In the USA we have Coleman fuel for camping stoves.

[Bobab]

Thanks both. The issue is that I don't know how these cameras are supposed to feel and how smooth they are supposed to be, so I was just going to do a full CLA to make sure everything is working perfectly. Given what could wrong, perhaps that is not the best idea - maybe I will start with the points indicated in the Norma user manual itself and see how that feels. One thing I am quite certain about is that the knob that I need to turn to allow the rear stand to tilt is almost impossible to turn.

[Bobab]

So started disassembling the and I think I may have already mess things up.

I can't screw the standard rod cap back on. I am not sure if caused this while slide off the holder, or if it was already like this, but top of one of the risers looks slightly deformed, which means the cap doesn't want to screw back in. Any idea how I can fix this?

The other thing I can't figure out is how to loosen the riser closes to the knob on the tilt locking screw from the screw. Does this one also screw off like the other end or should it just separate? The whole section of the mechanism is super stiff, I can't figure out how to separate it in order to lubricate it.

[Bobab]

So started disassembling the and I think I may have already mess things up.

I can't screw the standard rod cap back on. I am not sure if caused this while slide off the holder, or if it was already like this, but top of one of the risers looks slightly deformed, which means the cap doesn't want to screw back in. Any idea how I can fix this?

The other thing I can't figure out is how to loosen the riser closes to the knob on the tilt locking screw from the screw. Does this one also screw off like the other end or should it just separate? The whole section of the mechanism is super stiff, I can't figure out how to separate it in order to lubricate it.

Ok. Fixed (sort of) the first problem. Managed to reshape the riser sufficiently to screw the cap back in. Though it didn't feel very nice.

Still stuck at the tilt locking screw. Any help appreciated.

[Daniel Unkefer]

It would help to see some pictures. Not completely sure what is going on. Tell us and show us and help is around here

You have two standards. Take the better of the two completely apart and see, and (after cleaning) learn if it feels right and why. Then go to the one with the issues. How do the two compare? That is your answer.

Normas are tough but not impossible to damage. But any Norma can be rebuilt (unless really severe impact damage).

The big black tilt knobs should both unscrew with the same smooth ease. If it is jammed on you will need to use some additional carefully directed force. Perhaps a rubber band wrench and PB Blaster. Then pull the tilt rod straight out. Clean the threads until no crap remains and lightly lube with an "emulsion" moly using brush. Reassemble that's it

[Bobab]

This is the picture of what is stuck. Am I supposed to be able to remove this riser from the rod? I can't seem to create any distance between the riser and the knob.

Also, if I do manage to get it out, do you only grease the threads? Or do you Alps put some sort of lubricant, e.g. silicon, on the rod itself so it turns more smoothly inside horizontal bit of the assembly?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Refer again to fig 18 in the instruction book for all routine lubrication points.

In the USA we have PB Blaster, it is a penetrating oil. The idea is to soften the decades of crap and then gently muscle it apart. It will go.

OK What you have is a rod that is stuck inside one of the front riser. Try the other standard, and take it apart to understand the mechanism. It will come out! Must have an awful lot of crap to make it stick like that. Prolly decades of just sitting there. Not a biggie.

Do you have access to nail polish remover? That will remove the crap. And a stiff brush like a heavy toothbrush. You -lightly- lube the threads (once free of all crap). Also lube where it connects together, so you don't have this problem again. Use Moly grease, you can also use something else for a while. For the long term use Moly grease. I bought a 1000 year supply for eight Euros.

[Bobab]

Thanks. I'll order some penetrating oil. I did take both of them apart. And they are both stuck.

I have seen the figure in page 18. That was sort of why I was asking the question. I was surprised that you don't need to lubricate the rod itself because it is quite grippy inside the thing it sits in.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Sometimes penetrating oil will loosen stuck together parts. Those rods should be completely clean and turn smoothly. I would use electronic contact cleaner, and acetone if stubborn deposits remain. You will also probably need to clean the holes in the riser rods. Maybe some type of scrubber brush that will fit into those riser holes and clean them out. Do you see any corrosion on the rods or riser hole, or are they just really dirty?

I can't recall ever having this particular problem. But the rods should turn freely and not be sticky. Maybe in this case the silicone spray would work for you after you have cleaned the rods and holes thoroughly?

When using the contact cleaner and acetone, wear rubber nitrile gloves to protect your hands and ventilation.