*Precision metal cameras only, Sinar or similar. Check and verify camera alignment of front to rear standards are accurate and precise at the reference zero alignment position.
*No sheet film larger than 8x10, larger the sheet film greater the sag and problem with flatness due to temperature changes and more.
*No fresnel lens, these have caused more grief than what any improvement in perceived GG brightness can offer. Using a GOOD focusing lope really works, IMO WAY better than a fresnel, specially on wide angle lenses due to the ray angles involved.
*Verify GG to Film Holder dimensions using a depth micrometer, and do this with proper precision to better than 0.005" across the entire film holder and camera film back area.. This is why wood cameras are not preferred, IMO.
*Film holders of known precision and free of light leaks, yes film holders have tolerances and DO develop light leaks at the flap and dark slide slot (really shot film holder). Film holders warp, get out of shape and do the things materials do with time, temperature and wear.
*Tripod with mass and dampening, anything less can cause vibration related problems during exposure specially when working outdoors.
*Tripod head that is proven stable, those scrawny things are not gonna work. Sinar Pan-Tilt is one example of good.
*Above items becomes very significant when working with LF lenses with larger apertures of f8 and larger.
*Use a proper cable release to reduce vibration and movement transmitted to the camera during exposure.
Linhof made a portable vacuum film holder decades ago to address the problem of film flatness, not a common item and not well known item. In the graphic arts process camera world, vacuum film backs are pretty much standard method to maintain film flatness of those BIG sheets of film.
Bernice
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