Check with lithographer's supply house. There is a yellow, gridded paper which is ued for what you seek. The name escapes me, but I use it all the time to mask negs. Much thinner than rubylith.
Check with lithographer's supply house. There is a yellow, gridded paper which is ued for what you seek. The name escapes me, but I use it all the time to mask negs. Much thinner than rubylith.
If all you're interested in is a border mask to eliminate the black border of a contact print you can put black electrical tape around the edges of the contact printing frame glass. That's what I did and it works fine. But this seems so easy, without the need for unusual materials or worrying about precisely cutting out the center of the material, that I figure there must be something more to what you're trying to accomplish than I'm understanding. Several of the people who responded seem to assume you want a mask to use in dodging a contact print and if that's the case then of course you'd need something more elaborate than electrical tape. But then others talk only about border masks so I don't really know what you're trying to accomplish but if it's just a border mask then electrical tape on the glass will work fine.
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
Brian - I shoot 5x7 and 8x10 and have an 11x14 UV light source+vacuum frame made by Edwards Engineered Products.
Most of the time, I want to eliminate the black border on hand-coated Pt/Pd prints, for aesthetics. Some times, I want to crop an image, like when I do a "panorama" with my 8x10 camera, or when the composition is better than originally planned (as in the image above, cropped from an 8x10).
So I need to make a variety of masks. Thanks for the suggestion about electical tape. This can make do in a pinch - and it almost adds another usage to the list for the esteemed "Duck Tape".
Sandy + Richard - It appears that there are two kinds of RubyLith, made by Ulano so you are both right. I'll try to get some and see which one works better, etc.
According to the Ulano site,
"Rubylith® and Amberlith® are available in both high and low tack (quick stripping) formulations. High tack film is manufactured with an adhesive which produces a tight bond between the film membrane and the polyester backing sheet. High tack films are suitable for all types of cutting, but are particularly suited to the cutting of fine lines or details. Low tack films are produced with an a dhesive which allows the film membrane to be peeled easily. The "quick stripping" film is best suited for cutting masks or positives which are bold or large format."
"The backing sheet, or support, provides dimensional stability to the film. Although masking film coated on 300- gauge polyester is predominant, 500- gauge polyester is recommended when the application requires tight registration or the mask or positive is large format. Rubylith® is available coated on both 300- and 500- gauge polyester. Amberlith® is available in 300- gauge only."
Hi ken
Here is a suggestion which may provide an easy and perhaps cheaper answer for your needs. From an art store get some clear mylar and a roll of 3M no."616" red lithographers tape. This would give you a long lasting result. There are other brands available which are cheaper but the adhesives break down in a couple of years. If you use rubylith get the high tack and there will be less tendency for the lacquer coating to lift over time from handling.
Richard
Ken,
You can get some rubylith cheap here to try out: http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_redm1.htm
Free shipping too. It works for me.
Thanks Matt - I ordered a few sheets and will give it a try.
I found that my local Art Supply stores do not carry it - so your info was quite helpful.
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