8x10 For "Street" Portaiture

[joedgaia]

In reading these considered responses, I guess "street photography" was the wrong term? Maybe I should have said "spontaneous environmental portraiture"? There is some planning involved, but I'm looking to discover the inspired "controlled accident". I want to use the 8X10 cam to produce real world portraits that extend beyond the simple physical appearance and that express something more about the subject's story and their humanity. That's what interests me. Here's another taken with the Hassy SWC

[tgtaylor]

Look at the work of Greg Miller.
https://www.gregmiller.com

His 8x10 "street" work is wonderful.

Although he has two assistants with him, for me carrying the camera mounted on a dolly covered with the dark cloth would be the better choice. You could carry the light meter on your belt and the film holders in a small backpack. For the type of work that he does, one lens would probably be sufficient.

Thomas

[Bernice Loui]

"spontaneous environmental portraiture"

View camera images are essentially not spontaneous, view camera images are more often than not, planned, conceived and crafted. It goes back to the difference between "Decisive Moment" images ideally suited for roll film, hand held digital and similar cameras. View camera images tend to be conceived, then methodically crafted in a controlled way to result in the image from one's mind. The very essence of these two different approaches to image making separates the types of images produced.

Environmental portraiture often involves moderate to really wide angle lenses to enhance and capture the individual (s) within their environment. For 8x10, this puts the desired focal length between 250mm to 120mm or one of the more difficult and expensive focal lengths for 8x10. To equal the image perspective of a Hassy SWC on 8x10 typical focal length will end up in the 150mm range or easily a $1,000+ lens and not always easily available.


Question to carefully consider, " What image making advantages will 8x10 offer over other image making formats including digital?"



Bernice

In reading these considered responses, I guess "street photography" was the wrong term? Maybe I should have said "spontaneous environmental portraiture"? There is some planning involved, but I'm looking to discover the inspired "controlled accident". I want to use the 8X10 cam to produce real world portraits that extend beyond the simple physical appearance and that express something more about the subject's story and their humanity. That's what interests me. Here's another taken with the Hassy SWC

[Corran]

Something to consider. Not sure if anyone else has mentioned similar.

Decide what lens you want and what camera best fits that focal length. Considering your usage of the SWC, the closest focal length on 8x10 would be 120mm. For a more reserved wide-angle, something around 210mm would be better. The camera would best be something that can have its focus locked and setup repeatably. Once that's sorted out, decide what will be your typical focus distance. Measure out that distance with a test subject and get the camera focused, and locked down. Mark it somehow on the bed. Get one of those cheap rangefinders from Blik on eBay - doesn't matter if its accurate - and with the camera in place and focused right, focus the RF on your subject as well and tape down the focus wheel (you'll also need to attach it to the camera, so glue a cold shoe on the camera or something).

At this point you have a one-distance, coupled 8x10 RF. Of course you'll also have to figure out a viewfinder - if you don't mind spending money, the Linhof viewfinders are excellent, but won't be wide enough for that 120mm. Use your SWC VF if you go that wide (there will be a bit extra on one side due to the 4:5 aspect ratio of 8x10). As long as your setup is repeatable and the RF focus doesn't move, you could shoot handheld or on a monopod all day long at a single distance. I would still use a small f/stop myself, at least f/16 or f/22. 400-speed film in daylight should be fine at those apertures. If you are ambitious, multiple markings on the focus bed for different distances could work as well if you can estimate or measure focus.

Easier and cheaper thing to do overall though would be a Speed or Crown Graphic 4x5 with coupled RF to one lens.

[John Layton]

Contrary to my above post re the use of a Hobo-type camera...an aspect of photographing folks with an LF camera is the "sense of occasion" which this can bring - that even when the subject is not known (or well known) by the photographer, the presence of something like an 8x10 drop-bed or monorail camera and the ritual that setting up and making an image entails...can communicate to the subject a sense of importance and respect, as well as giving the subject an additional roll of collaborator. Just a thought!

[Bernice Loui]

Hassy SWC is a 6x6 square format camera using a 38mm Biogon, diagonal angle of view is 90 degrees.

120mm focal length lens on 8x10 is over 100 degrees diagonal angle of view or significantly wider angle of view compared to the SWC.
Root difference is square image formate -vs- rectangular image format. The SWC was a very wide angle camera when introduced, since then the angle of view possible has increased significantly. Examples are the 120 degree Super Angulon XL series and 35mm APO Grandagon. Coupled with a graduated center filter, these modern wide angle optics produce far greater rectilinear images on film than the Biogon used in the SWC.

Know none of these 120 degree angle of view lenses fully cover or has been designed for 8x10.


Been there done this,
Bernice

[Corran]

8x8 "square" crop = 200mm, 6x6 Hassy = 56mm, so the "correct" FL for the same FoV in a square crop is ~135mm. I don't think there are any 135mm lenses for 8x10, so 120mm is a little wider and 150mm is a little longer. Pick your poison.

[Oren Grad]

Picking up on Bryan's observations, and taking into account that Joe seems comfortable with the very wide square view of the SWC: if you crop 8x10 to 8x8, it goes a long way to fixing the falloff problem with the 120 SA on 8x10. Not all the way, but maybe enough that fixing it with a center filter becomes much less pressing a concern.

[Bernice Loui]

Actual image area of 8x10 film, about 7.75" x 9.75" or closer to the 150mm focal length than 120mm focal length.
Similar to 60mm x 60mm (6x6) actual image area of 56mm x 56mm.

Ends up with a 7.75" square image area on 8x10 sheet film (which is slightly smaller than 8x10).

120mm focal length on 8x10 IS a really wide angle of view.


Bernice

[ScottPhotoCo]

I know that you said that you're looking for 8x10 but what do you hope to gain with 8x10 over say 4x5 or 5x7? Unless you plan to print REALLY large you likely won't see much of a difference in quality at standard print sizes up to 16x20 (in my experience).

For what you are describing as your process you may want to consider a Graflex SLR. It will allow a larger film size (4x5, 5x7) and can be hand held and is also quicker to set and shoot which in my experience helps capture moments that the time to set up a full field camera wouldn't easily allow. You can use a variety of lenses to suit your subject and the results can be stunning.

Another benefit is that most people have never seen a camera like this and are fascinated by it and therefore more willing to take the time to work with you. Again, just my experience.

I will post some images as soon as I get back to my computer for your reference.

Tim