Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Outlet questions

[Ginette]

Thanks all for your input.

Kodak Safelights model C is metal, very similar to Model D except model D have 3 wires and grounded.
Here a model D (took on eBay)


My model C socket is this one

2 wires, no ground and non polarized plug. You can see also the ON-OFF chain mechanism.
As the cord is pretty stiff I wish to change with new cord, the one I have is polarised plug (at right in the picture).
I supposed that it is not a problem to replace a non polarized by a polarised plug. I will plug it correctly NEUTRAL, wider blade, ribbed wire on the silver screw.
I read online "Most non polarized appliances are double insulated" but no explanation about the double insulated. Is it relied on security feature?

The 2 circuits added in the darkroom is GFCI but adding an outlet on the first appearance in the line. The 3th circuit, the original 2 room outlets are not near the sink and not really used. Rfesk, the problem is not the house circuits but only the safelights that came with non grounded plugs. My question was about if the non grounded is still GFCI protect. Answer look yes.

We can see the same problematic of grounded vs non grounded safelights also in the Kodak model B (round 5 1/2" filter) Newer model is 3 wires grounded and older is 2 wires non grounded. Illustrations from eBay.


Another safetly question. If I said that I will turn OFF the lamp before touching it, for reoriented it for example. Is it better to unplug it or the Chain pull ON-OFF will cut all current into it.

[HMG]

If plugged into a circuit with a properly working gfci, I think you're being overly cautious. Of course, I'm not the one at risk.

So that said, if you are really concerned about a short in the safelight, turning it off by the cord would probably not be adequate as it's turning off power to the bulb but not to the device as a whole.

[Tin Can]

If plugged into a circuit with a properly working gfci, I think you're being overly cautious. Of course, I'm not the one at risk.

So that said, if you are really concerned about a short in the safelight, turning it off by the cord would probably not be adequate as it's turning off power to the bulb but not to the device as a whole.

Good point!

[DennisD]

We can see the same problematic of grounded vs non grounded safelights also in the Kodak model B (round 5 1/2" filter) Newer model is 3 wires grounded and older is 2 wires non grounded. Illustrations from eBay.


Another safetly question. If I said that I will turn OFF the lamp before touching it, for reoriented it for example. Is it better to unplug it or the Chain pull ON-OFF will cut all current into it.

To be perfectly safe, why don't you simply re-wire both older safelights with a 3 wire cord and plug, properly grounded to the metal safelight housing. Make sure the hot and neutral are wired properly to the plug.

Regarding "another safety question": it's always safer to unplug a device rather than turn it off by an in-line switch. If the switch is incorrctly wired or a non polarized plug Is used, you could very likely have a live hot wire while the switch is off.

[Eric Woodbury]

You don't want a 3-wire with a metal housing. It's like a toaster. Toasters are 2-wire with a metal exterior. If you ground the exterior of a toaster, then it provides an easy ground with which to be shocked should you stick a knife in there. Same here. Don't encourage the current to flow.

As I understand the code explained to me by my electrician neighbor, GFCIs do not need the 3rd wired grounded 'in a remodel'. They still provide protection should an imbalance of current appear between the two wires. BTW, this is a handy way to install 3 prong plugs in an old house (such as mine).

Also, GFCIs at the junction box are great for a single load line, but for a darkroom, it could be a nightmare. If the GFCI is tripped, you'll have no idea where it is without a bunch of trail and error. And I don't know about your darkroom, but I use 3 breakers. One for HVAC and two miscellaneous. It's not that I need that much juice all the time, but I like the division of circuits and lots of outlets.

Good luck and keep one hand in your pocket.

[Ginette]

You don't want a 3-wire with a metal housing. It's like a toaster. Toasters are 2-wire with a metal exterior. If you ground the exterior of a toaster, then it provides an easy ground with which to be shocked should you stick a knife in there. Same here. Don't encourage the current to flow.

Yes you're right, I take a look at my toaster. Also it is an non polarized plug as the original safelight plug is. Can I put polarized plug onto? What I found for an easy relamping is this cord lamp https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.c...000113207.html

Also, GFCIs at the junction box are great for a single load line, but for a darkroom, it could be a nightmare. If the GFCI is tripped, you'll have no idea where it is without a bunch of trail and error. And I don't know about your darkroom, but I use 3 breakers. One for HVAC and two miscellaneous. It's not that I need that much juice all the time, but I like the division of circuits and lots of outlets.

3 circuits also in the darkroom. 2 circuits was derivated from other purpose circuits (central vacuum and another one from the workshop). A GFCI outlet was installed when the circuit enter in the darkroom and this is supposed to give the same protection for the others outlets in the line.

But why Kodak change from 2 prongs to 3 prongs for exactly the same safelights? Model C vs D and for the Model B.

[HMG]

3 circuits also in the darkroom. 2 circuits was derivated from other purpose circuits (central vacuum and another one from the workshop). A GFCI outlet was installed when the circuit enter in the darkroom and this is supposed to give the same protection for the others outlets in the line.

Hopefully your enlarger is not on the same circuit as the central vac and the workshop. Could be an issue if a high draw motor is turned on while enlarging. Not a big issue; just that the initial current draw might affect your exposure.

[Leszek Vogt]

Unless you insisting on GFCI, you could hack a lamp (the one you clap your hands to) and hook up your safety light/s....and without touching any strings.

Those GFCI thingys are not as great as I expected. I had a refridge hooked up to it (in garage) and it turned out to be too sensitive and it would shut off the refridge. It took a pro to trouble shoot this madness. Just sharing....

Les

[Ginette]

Hopefully your enlarger is not on the same circuit as the central vac and the workshop. Could be an issue if a high draw motor is turned on while enlarging. Not a big issue; just that the initial current draw might affect your exposure.

Enlargers are on the workshop circuit, an independant 20A circuit with an external line of outlets on the workshop wall that was extended into the darkroom. When I'm in the darkroom, I'm not using tools in the workshop and not using the central Vac either! Central Vac line control the exaust fan, safelights, some Gralab timers, etc. Original room outlets circuit is the same for 2-3 others rooms in the basement so I don't really plug anything into, except maybe 1 or 2 safelights. Maybe you found that I have too many safelights... I hate changing filters so I prefer having 0C, #2, #GBX-2, #10 installed and using the one needed. For my lumens project, I have a lot of old papers requesting differents filters and as I don't need the enlargers, safelights are not connected via the enlargers' timers.

[HMG]

Unless you insisting on GFCI, you could hack a lamp (the one you clap your hands to) and hook up your safety light/s....and without touching any strings.

Those GFCI thingys are not as great as I expected. I had a refridge hooked up to it (in garage) and it turned out to be too sensitive and it would shut off the refridge. It took a pro to trouble shoot this madness. Just sharing....

Les

I suspect the current draw from the fridge compressor turning on might have "fooled" the gfci. And, like any device, some may be better than others.