procedural question for landscape photographers

[Brian Ellis]

I only make one. If there's a problem I fix it in Photoshop. Photoshop makes things so much simpler. I've used Elmer's glue to permanently set the apertures on all my lenses at F22 and the shutter speed at one second. It used to be such a pain having to move those things around all the time and any exposure problems can be fixed in Photoshop so what's the point? I also don't bother looking at the ground glass any more. I just point the camera in the general direction of the subject and click the shutter. If there was something in the scene I wanted to include but missed I go on the web, find the same thing in someone else's photograph, and move it into mine with Photoshop.

[Eric Leppanen]

Two sheets with B&W, usually one at my calculated exposure, and the other with one additional stop of exposure so I am sure of getting all of the shadow areas. I'll develop the first negative, then decide whether the second is necessary (and if so, at what development time). On low contrast scenes my second sheet might be shot at one stop less than calculated exposure, to give me more leeway if I decide to push.

Two sheets with color neg, here again at calculated and plus one stop exposures, respectively, giving me the best chance of getting all the shadow areas while not blowing out the highlights.

Varies wildly with color transparency film. Sometimes one sheet if the scene is evenly illuminated and I can use my incident meter. Sometimes three or four if I am uncertain of exposure, which is expensive to be sure but I'd rather eat the cost than miss the shot.

I agree that in any case it is prudent to shoot at least two sheets to guard against mishaps, at least with shots you feel strongly will be "keepers."

[d.s.]

Usually two, at different exposures. Sometimes I don't shoot any!

[David A. Goldfarb]

For landscapes, usually just one shot per setup, though I might move the camera or wait for the light to change and take more than one shot of the scene. Occasionally I might shoot a reserve, if I think the shot is really special, or if I'm undecided about development, but I rarely actually use the reserve. I don't usually shoot color, but when I do, I might bracket in 1/3 stops, since there is usually a range of "correct" exposures with color slide film, and 1/3 stop can make all the difference.

People who shoot 4x5" seem more likely to shoot a reserve as a general practice and to be somewhat moralistic about it, as in the case of that snipe at Jorge above. If you're going out in the field with three to five holders of 8x10" or larger (and "larger" means $300+ per holder generally) for the day, there's more of an incentive to meter carefully and conserve film. Even if you're not concerned about the cost of film, there is a limit to how much one person can carry on foot.

[Brian C. Miller]

I've found that now that I have switched to Bufo-brand Toad Film with its thick Tasty Toad Emulsion I expose myself to my subjects far more frequently! The number of exposures depends on how many sheets of film I have. Or have had. Then to make the electrons zip around even more I taste the 22.5V battery from my Graflex... 8-}

And when I'm using Tri-X ...
Most of the time I expose one sheet at N and one sheet at N+1, but that depends on how far it is to where I went. If its local, then just one exposure. If its several hundred miles from me, then I don't mind shooting extra film.

[tim atherton]

"If you're going out in the field with three to five holders of 8x10" or larger (and "larger" means $300+ per holder generally) for the day, there's more of an incentive to meter carefully and conserve film. Even if you're not concerned about the cost of film, there is a limit to how much one person can carry on foot."

I'm more likely to take 2 or 3 variations on one scene than double up on the same shot, but even with 8x10 I would find 3 or 5 holders limiting for either natural landscapes or urban landscapes. 10-12 is normally what I would take if I'm going to be out for 2 or 3 hours - especially for urban landscapes/cityscapes

[Oren Grad]

Usually only one sheet, unless I have specific reason to suspect that something went wrong with the initial exposure; then I might spend a second. When I'm working in 8x10, three holders is all I can carry, so the frugality is more or less a necessity. The habit has carried over to other sheet film formats, including smaller ones like 4x5 or 5x7.

[David A. Goldfarb]

For urban landscapes/cityscapes, a car or at least a wheeled cart is an option. Are you carrying 10-12 8x10" holders, camera, lenses, etc. and tripod on your back for a full day?

[David A. Goldfarb]

Wait--Tim, you have a stack of 8x10" Mido holders, no? Hey, if I could buy them, I'd carry 10 holders a day too!

[David Karp]

For B&W 4x5, I expose two sheets. I know my materials. I also know if I really really want a photo, and only expose one sheet, there will be a big dust spec on it. If I shoot two sheets, there usually won't be a spec on either.