For 8x10 I'd recommend a 360 over a 300. On the P67, the 165 (or 120 soft) is a better choice than the 105.
Thomas
For 8x10 I'd recommend a 360 over a 300. On the P67, the 165 (or 120 soft) is a better choice than the 105.
Thomas
Wow, thanks Mark! I got one of these a couple of months ago and haven't put it on my 8x10 yet because of the sync issue. When you said this, I realized how stupid I've been: I already have a Packard on the 8x10 in a reducing board that takes my 5x7 boards, which is what I mount all the bbl lenses on. The Wolly is living on the 5x7 camera waiting for me to solve the synch problem, but I never made the connection to mount it on the shutter board instead of the reducing board I also use. Dumb, dumb, dumb me!
Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
Large format: http://flickr.com/michaeldarnton
Mostly 35mm: http://flickr.com/mdarnton
You want digital, color, etc?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradofear
Trust me, Michael, you're going to love it! One of the great classic lenses of the early twentieth century.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Boy, did you walk into a hornet's nest!!!
I suggest you go through the many posts on the monthly portraits thread. See which images appeal to you and note which lens was used. I would also make a note of the lighting used as that will have a great effect your results, too.
The depth of field with an 8x10 shooting wide open is razor thin. The subject has to stay still while you close the lens, load the film holder, pull the slide.... It's challenging.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
For portraits, some in the past have recommended the 300mm Fujinon L.
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