Yes, but not necessarily, as my Linhof Tek III has them and I can "trim" the focus when the 65mm is in the body shell, and lock down for a "hyperfocal" setting, but the same idea with threaded knobs (with springs pushing outward)... The knobs can be all set with the same amount of rotation, or a cog belt around all of the knobs/nuts to move them evenly, but in practice giving them all the same rotation should suffice (like 4 volume control knobs all set the same)...
This does not have to be rocket science, but can be something that can be built on a kitchen table if necessary... A good design is the first part...
Steve K
If you do that and select 4x5 film and a 65mm at f/16 then if you focus at 2.7 meters, everything from 1.3m to infinity is about just as sharp. Close enough to a point-and-shoot to me. Even at f/8 it would be usable.
Yep, better spend twice as long designing then 4 times as long debugging.Originally Posted by LabRat
Expert in non-working solutions.
I just built this one »spacer« specifically for the 75mm focussed at infinity. The writing on top states the hyperfocal distances for the snadard aperture numbers:
ƒ5,6 —> 6.1m
ƒ8 —> 4.9m
etc.
I have yet to attach a tripod mount. Still not sure where to attach it. I’ve only just used it lying down on some wall or what else I could find.
I have my forst version ready and turned it into a pinhole. My woodworking skills reaqlly suck! :-) Now busy with the second version. I think I will use one old filmholder to create a sort of groundglass holder so I can determin the correct distance of the lens to the film plane.
Your woodworking does not have to get in the way... Using paper products (matboard, cardboard, boxes, tins, etc) that can be cut easily anywhere with sharp knives etc, work too...
With a camera back (with GG), box, lightproof tape, etc you could build one in the jungle, or anywhere else, so don't make it too hard to find a solution...
You can do it!!!
Steve K
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