8x10 camera recomendations

[Alan Gales]

Besides the other great suggestions look at the Ritter 8x10, especially if light weight is important.

http://www.lg4mat.net/LFcamera.html


I own the Fujinon W 250mm f/6.7 lens that Vaughn recommends. I paid only $300 for mine but lately I've heard that they have sold for $200 and even less. What a bargain!

Personally, I own a Wehman 8x10 and a three lens kit consisting of the Fuji, a 14" Kodak Commercial Ektar and a 19" Red Dot Artar. You don't have to spend a fortune to get great lenses. My Wehman 8x10 is no longer available new and is very hard to find on the used market or I would highly recommend it to you.

[Alan9940]

I have owned and used a Deardorff 8x10 since the early 1980's, but at 64 years young it's getting to be a bit much to backpack around the countryside! I'm looking forward to the lightweight of the Intrepid 8x10 (for backpacking) and will relegate my Deardorff to working from the car. Remains to be seen if it all works out.

@Alan Gales - I just picked up a Fujinon W 250mm f/6.7 (inside lettering) recently from a board member here and, though I've only shot a few negs with it, I'm mightily impressed! I love my Fujinon A 240mm as a lightweight wideangle on 8x10, but I'm looking forward to the increased movements the 250/6.7 will provide.

[Vaughn]

Ben, I should have read your post better! "I typically photograph buildings, portrates, and still things like plants."

Those three have different requirements when it comes to the optimal lens for each type of photography.

For example, for still life, a process lens in a barrel (no shutter) would be an inexpensive way to get high quality glass designed for what you are doing (sharpness optimized for close-up work). Exposures are usually long enough to use the lens cap as your shutter.

Portraits: many people are using old portrait lenses and shy away from modern glass. These are rarely 'mint condition' and rarely need to be. It will depend on what qualities you wish the image to have. If you want a sharp modern image, than any modern lens should do. Head shots with a long lens -- that is when you'll need the bellow length!

Buildings: Typically, one wants lots of coverage to take advantage of rise/fall. But you might also need shorter lenses if you can't back up far enough from your subject. Those are two opposing characteristics in the world of lens design that can usually only cured by a lot of money (check out the Super-Symmar XL lenses!)

One thing to consider is how much glass (weight) you will be hanging off the front standard. I have a Fuji W 360/6.3. Hefty pieces of glass in a Copal 3 shutter! I really bought it for the 11x14 I have coming, but the front standard of my Zone VI 8x10 has no trouble supporting it.

Good luck!

[Alan9940]

One thing to consider is how much glass (weight) you will be hanging off the front standard. I have a Fuji W 360/6.3. Hefty pieces of glass in a Copal 3 shutter!

Vaughn,

I have a Fuji CM-W 360/6.5 which like yours is a chunk of glass! But, the Fuji 360 pales in comparison to the small dinner plate front element size of my Schneider Symmar-S 360/6.8!! I don't backpack that Symmar anymore.

[David Lobato]

I have an old wooden Conley 8x10 with a 12 inch Kodak Commercial Ektar lens. It's much lighter than my Deardorff, even with the lens, and is (relatively) easy to transport and carry. It's great for portraits and close up subjects not needing lens tilt or back tilt. It has a bit of front rise and with a shorter lens around 240mm it would work for architecture. There are lighter weight cameras like this that might meet your needs.

[ruuuz]

8x10" face :-)

with stenopeika 810se2

[B.S.Kumar]

And if you're looking at new 8x10 cameras, I can get you a Toyo 810MII for 375,000 JPY plus shipping.
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...res-from-Japan

Kumar