Bought my first LF camera - Sinar Norma

[prestonedavis]

This should be done before putting film in any newly acquired view camera before trying to make images.

Talk about a lesson well learned! I definitely should have done this at the beginning. Fortunately I purchased from a great vendor over on the big auction site.

[Pere Casals]

Thanks for this. I'm so early into the LF game that I don't yet know how to read these tests. Hopefully I'll understand them sooner than later.

This is pretty straight, the header of the column says "Fstop/cnt/mdl/edge"

So f/11 76 85 38 meaning is that that lens resolves 76 LP/mm, line pairs per milimeter, projected in the center (cnt) of the image circle, 38 in the edge, and 85 in the middle point.

That test used Edmond Scientific Lens Resolution Chart, here you see the center, edge and middle point marked with a circle.

Attachment 166654

So you have a number of USAF 1951 type patterns, then you seek the smallest pattern where you can see if bars are Hor or Vert, then to take the Group and Element number of that pattern (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1951_U...ion_test_chart) to know how many Lp/mm resolves, still you have to know the magnification of the pattern projected in the Ground glass (1:20 for example) to multiply by that factor the reading, because the actual size of the pattern on the GG can be 1/20 of the real target.

Please NOTE the disclaimer of that test:

"This is at best a relative (not absolute) comparison between these lenses. Kerry and I are simply looking for the Pick of the Litter.
All lenses tested at 1:20 magnification (a typical working distance).
Test setup was TMax100, D76 processed to my system's calibrated exposure/time/temp
Canham DCLH(?) metal field 4x5, Linhof Tech III, Linhof Master Technika, Linhof Master Karden, and Tachihara wood field 4x5
Edmond Scientific Lens Resolution Chart
The negatives were exposed for Zone 7-8 for detailed white and Zone 3 for detailed shadow."

The replacement lens came today. The vendor included with it his speed test results. I guess this is a thing I have to keep in mind going forward with most large format lenses?

Yes, see here section 3. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/expo...rge-format.htm

This is very important for Velvia/Provia. For negarive film you can overexpose a bit as a safety belt for shutter inaccuracy.

IMHO a serious LF photographer needs to check his shutters with a shutter tester, in special if shooting slides, but opinions about this may vary.

[Pere Casals]

Thanks for this. I'm so early into the LF game that I don't yet know how to read these tests. Hopefully I'll understand them sooner than later.

This is pretty straight, the header of the column says "Fstop/cnt/mdl/edge"

So f/11 76 85 38 meaning is that that lens resolves 76 LP/mm, line pairs per milimeter, projected in the center (cnt) of the image circle, 38 in the edge, and 85 in the middle point.

That test used Edmond Scientific Lens Resolution Chart, here you see the center, edge and middle point marked with a circle.



So you have a number of USAF 1951 type patterns, then you seek the smallest pattern where you can see if bars are Hor or Vert, then to take the Group and Element number of that pattern (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1951_U...ion_test_chart) to know how many Lp/mm resolves, still you have to know the magnification of the pattern projected in the Ground glass (1:20 for example) to multiply by that factor the reading, because the actual size of the pattern on the GG can be 1/20 of the real target.

Please NOTE the disclaimer of that Perez & T test:

"This is at best a relative (not absolute) comparison between these lenses. Kerry and I are simply looking for the Pick of the Litter.
All lenses tested at 1:20 magnification (a typical working distance).
Test setup was TMax100, D76 processed to my system's calibrated exposure/time/temp
Canham DCLH(?) metal field 4x5, Linhof Tech III, Linhof Master Technika, Linhof Master Karden, and Tachihara wood field 4x5
Edmond Scientific Lens Resolution Chart
The negatives were exposed for Zone 7-8 for detailed white and Zone 3 for detailed shadow."

The replacement lens came today. The vendor included with it his speed test results. I guess this is a thing I have to keep in mind going forward with most large format lenses?

Yes, see here section 3. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/expo...rge-format.htm

This is very important for Velvia/Provia. For negative film you can overexpose a bit as a safety belt for shutter inaccuracy.

IMHO a serious LF photographer needs to check his shutters with a shutter tester, in special if shooting slides, but opinions about this may vary.

[prestonedavis]

My replacement bellows came in today. They appear to be brand new(!).

Question, is there a break in period with new bellows? I ask because when stretching them out to compare to the old ones in size, the new bellows feel stiff as if I'm stretching them too far.

[Jerry Bodine]

IDK, it's been many years since I bought mine new, but I'm certain they did not seem stiff when I got them. Try leaving it extended overnight and see if it's more flexible tomorrow. Then check the bubble levels on both standards to see if there's any indication of movement (tilting) caused by extending the bellows.

[Greg]

My replacement bellows came in today. They appear to be brand new(!).

Question, is there a break in period with new bellows? I ask because when stretching them out to compare to the old ones in size, the new bellows feel stiff as if I'm stretching them too far.

Have been using LEXOL leather conditioner for years, even if the bellows isn't leather. Just seems to work great on any bellows material.

[prestonedavis]

IDK, it's been many years since I bought mine new, but I'm certain they did not seem stiff when I got them. Try leaving it extended overnight and see if it's more flexible tomorrow. Then check the bubble levels on both standards to see if there's any indication of movement (tilting) caused by extending the bellows.

Ok. I'll leave it extended overnight to see what happens.

[prestonedavis]

Have been using LEXOL leather conditioner for years, even if the bellows isn't leather. Just seems to work great on any bellows material.

Good to know!

[prestonedavis]

So I think everything with my Sinar is in proper enough order for me to move forward with learning the ins and outs of LF. I exposed a few sheets the other day. Nothing spectacular as I just wanted to make sure the new bellows was working out as well as the Fujinon 135mm I picked up from a local selling it on craigslist.

I hope to spend a lot more time with it this weekend.

Here's one of the images I made the other day.

Untitled by preston davis, on Flickr

Before this photo I was using the MOD54 to developed my test sheets but that thing was way too complicated and I just couldn't get the film to stay in place. So I purchased the SP-445 and am very happy with it. More practical compared to the MOD54 in my opinion.

Thanks to everyone here for all the advice and information shared in the thread. It was really helpful.

[Peter De Smidt]

You're off to a great start. Nice work!