Need Holes Drilled for Lens Flange

[el french]

A #50 drill bit and a 2-56 tap will set you back between $5 and $10. It's not a difficult task to tap 2-56 threads. Practice on a piece of scrap metal first.

http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm

[Keith Pitman]

Where are you? If you were in the Denver area, I would do it for you. Otherwise someone else here might make the same offer.

[Punker]

A #50 drill bit and a 2-56 tap will set you back between $5 and $10. It's not a difficult task to tap 2-56 threads. Practice on a piece of scrap metal first.

http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm

This is great! Thank you!

Where are you? If you were in the Denver area, I would do it for you. Otherwise someone else here might make the same offer.

Thanks, Keith! Unfortunately, I'm in Los Angeles. But hopefully another generous soul may make that offer. Regards.

[Leigh]

The meaning of "nominal charge" varies quite a bit.
Its meaning for a photographer is very different from its meaning to a machinist.

I have a commercial machine shop.
My lowest rate, for really simple stuff, is $100/hour with a 1 hour minimum.
At that rate I'm just breaking even, not making any profit.

- Leigh

[LabRat]

You can back the screws with nuts IF the bolt circle on the flange (with rear nuts) is smaller than the FS inner opening diameter, or a no/go, because it will not fit inside the FS...

Tapping such a thin board is tricky, as the tap must not wiggle it's angle while tapping, or it can damage the newly cut threads... Then you will have to cut the 2-56 screws so they will screw flush on the rear (and not interfere with the light trap on rear)...

Also, Linhof boards hole height is staggered, so you will have to see where the flange/lens will fit, but you can use the front rise to center the lens on the axis... And make sure the lens/shutter will fit on front of camera and operate the controls clearly...

Worst case, you can epoxy the flange to the board... Done well, it will NOT come off...


Steve K

[Nodda Duma]

Take this is an opportunity to learn to tap threads.

Learn now and you'll save your future self a ton of money, not to mention the self-confidence boost you'll get from DIY!

Just google how to tap threads, read a bunch, and then give it a go on some scrap.

[LabRat]

Take this is an opportunity to learn to tap threads.

Learn now and you'll save your future self a ton of money, not to mention the self-confidence boost you'll get from DIY!

Just google how to tap threads, read a bunch, and then give it a go on some scrap.

I agree, but this really should be done on a drill press or mill, so the drill is perpendicular to the surface (with no run-out), and the tap has to be started at least in the chuck with such small threaded holes, so there are tools and processes involved...

But DIY is very empowering, and can solve many detail issues!!!

Steve K

[Duolab123]

What a simple issue. Go to Ace Hardware (if you have one). They have every screw you could want. Choose the correct one by fitting it into the flange holes. Then choose a matching nut. Drill the lens board with the appropriate drill or one slightly larger. Be happy.

You do not need holes to be tapped. It's a waste of effort.
.

Absolutely agree. I go to a local Ace Hardware. Twice in the last month I mounted flanges onto Zone VI aluminum enlarger boards. Nice older fellow helped me. He had to use SS #2 machine screws, I got some teeny weenie lock washers and SS nuts as well. Brass would have been my first choice but they stopped at #4. If the flange has nice counter sunk holes get flat or oval head. If it's just a hole get a pan head machine screw. Tapping aluminum boards can be vexing. I love the work from SK Grimes, it would be perfect and threaded etc. If cheap and easy is what you seek, just find a nice guy at a hardware store.
Mike

[Leigh]

The trick to tapping is to keep the tap absolutely perpendicular to the material being tapped.
If the tap skews off at any angle, it will break.

The simple way to accomplish this is to use a supported tap handle.
These have an axle sticking out the top and a hollow sleeve in which it rotates.
The sleeve is held in a chuck in a drill press, supporting the tap.

Here's one that's commercially available:
Here's the product page at McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#2550a64/=176sab5

And here's one that was made in a shop:

To use these, you first clamp the work on the drill press table, properly positioned.
Then you drill the pilot hole for the tap.
Then without moving the work you raise the quill and grip the guide in the chuck.
Install the tap and holder, and tap the hole.

- Leigh

[Nodda Duma]

I've only ever tapped by hand. Use speed taps. By design they tend to self-align with the pre-drilled hole.