I have seen lenses mounted in boards with too large a hole - #0 shutters in #1 holes - but I don't think this applies in your case. If it does, a ring of black paper on the inside of the lensboard might be all you need.
I have seen lenses mounted in boards with too large a hole - #0 shutters in #1 holes - but I don't think this applies in your case. If it does, a ring of black paper on the inside of the lensboard might be all you need.
I checked the other objective as well, and the effect's less pronounced but it leaks too. I guess this is what you get when you buy things from someone who mostly collects them instead of putting them to use. Anyway, are washers generally used to provide better fit? The tele objective hasn't got a washer, it's just plain tightened up with the ring, which I've tightened with pliers as much as is reasonable, and it still leaks. There're no notches nor screws and since it leaks all-round, well, should that indicate the shutter's not bent or the other way around? The 90mm angulon's got a couple of cardboard washers to seal it better, but it leaks too. To repeat, are washers normally used, if yes, then washers of which material? Cardboard, copper, silicone? What other tricks should I try to seal the leaks? That is, if I had them fixed by a professional, what would that person do? Or do they just need new lensboards? I wouldn't be that cheap to have them fixed and I suppose if I can't do it myself with reasonable effort, it'll be worth my while to go talk to the seller and check if he's got objectives that don't have leaks and try to have mine exchanged for those. I recall he had a 90mm Congo he considered better than the one I bought, so I might go for that. Anyway, I'm glad the leak wasn't in the camera, as it's already long since declared and I'd lose quite a bit of money if I had to send it back to Adorama to be repaired.
Thanks!
Well, if the hole is just plain bigger than it needs to be that's a problem. I am sure many on the forum have made do with that arrangement, even though it is not ideal. You might cut a washer out of cork, this works quite well since it compresses and lasts a long time, sheets of this are sold at auto parts stores as DIY gasket kits. But yes, they need to be reasonably tight. To seal out light and so you don't get annoyed when the lens starts turning around in the middle of a day out shooting somewhere. Does this lens have a slim ring or a wide flange or something else? The answer to your question is normally washers aren't needed, the hole is just big enough and the lens board isn't too thin so the retaining ring snugs it up light tight. If you are using a flange which should be front mounted with screws to the board, and putting it on the back instead. it may be more prone to leaking.
I have used a thin felt product sold at hardware stores as drawer linning. It is self adhesive and very thin. It provides a light tight seal and also provides a very good contact surface for the lens to mate to the lens board. This felt comes as a sheet about 10 x 10 inches, cut a strip and form it around the mating surface on the back of the lens. It comes in green and also in dark brown, I use the brown. Good luck.
I concur with using black felt. I have also found that plastic/rubber plumbing washers slipped over the rear shutter's threading can make for a light 'N tight fit with a flange.
If the lens board hole is just too big for your shutter the solution is to buy/make a board with the proper size hole (or buy an undrilled board and drill the proper size). "Fixing" the problem with felt or a washer or something of that nature is IMHO a mistake. You'll never know that the washer or the felt moved or deteriorated or something else happened that caused the light leak to return until you start developing your negatives after a week long trip for which you spent thousands of dollars or after getting what you think was the shot of your life and see that none of your negatives are printable. You can make a lens board yourself for only a few dollars, you can buy them on ebay used for just a little more, you can buy them new for $30 or $40 or you can have one custom made by S.K. Grimes for $50 or so if you want to go first class.
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
Just an update for no particular reason.
After talking to the seller of the objectives and having him provide a powerful movie projector as a light source we confirmed that the light leaks are caused by a bad front standard on my Tachihara. Both lensboards fit a Linhof Technica IV with no leaks and they seem to fit my camera as well, but the fit is not light tight. Maybe the wood's warped, I don't know. I'll have to sort this out with the camera retailer.
OT:This doesn't go with this topic at all, but since the forum can be searched and it's not worth its own thread I'll post this here. I purchased a Tamrac Expedition 8 backpack (5578). I've still to see if the manufacturer will fix the backpack for me, so I'm not trying to defame them, just informing. Loaded with my LF gear, meaning it could still be much heavier, once adjusted and tightened, the top and front adjustments for the harness will loosen up rapidly and make the 5578 a poor backpack. Rapidly means you need to be pulling the straps tighter every 10-15 minutes and the backpack won't hold its place at your waist either because of this. Otherwise I like the backpack, when it fits it feels good. If you're trying such a pack out, make sure yours won't loosen up when you walk with it loaded. They may've used different materials for different batches of the bags, who knows.
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