Framing question

[Robert Kalman]

I'm preparing to mount a show for December and I could use a small bit of framing advice.

I have two 20x30 prints that I'm going to flush mount to the edges of metal frames. No mat. I'll be using spacers to keep the print off the plexiglas. Generally, when I mount prints for framing, I use a piece of either foam core or gator board as backing material.

The question is this: Given the size of the print, is it advisable to have the print physically bonded to the gator board or can I rely on the pressure of the backing spring clips to hold the print properly in place? There's a significant cost difference: To have my custom lab mount it to the board will cost $40 per print. Simply using foam core backing without bonding will cost $4.50 per print.

Opinions?

Many thanks!

[vinny]

In my experience, foam core doesn't stay flat over time. I wouldn't rely on clips holding a print that size (or any size for me).
My lab charges $24 to mount a 20x30 on gator board (3/16) including materials.

[Robert Kalman]

In my experience, foam core doesn't stay flat over time. I wouldn't rely on clips holding a print that size (or any size for me).
My lab charges $24 to mount a 20x30 on gator board (3/16) including materials.

Sigh...I was hoping for a different answer ;-).

Thanks for the sound advice, Vinny.

[Jim Jones]

. . . I wouldn't rely on clips holding a print that size (or any size for me). . . .

I agree. It's better to pad out the space between the mount board and the back of metal frames with foam core and perhaps a bit of mat board to make a snug fit.

[Robert Kalman]

Thank you all for your contributions to my education regarding print mounting and backing techniques. Invaluable!

[Richard Wasserman]

+1 for Dibond

[Mrportr8]

Dibond is heavy and more expensive than gatorfoam. If you are asking if an umounted print can be supported just by a backer the short answer is no. You can mount it directly to gator or mat board backed with gator. At that size you're at about the limit for 3/16" gator to remain flat is a frame. Any bigger and I'd recommend 1/2" gator. Another consideration is mounting the print "second surface" directly to the acrylic. This eliminates the need for spacers, backer board etc. If you want archival, then mount the print to rag/museum board and back it with archival foam board for additional support. A side note, you can also use matte acryilic but put the matte non glare side facing the print. The matte surface will not stick to your print if that is what you are concerned with. Then you can forgo spacers and mounting all together.

[Drew Wiley]

Dibond is awfully expensive for just a backer material. But a $40 mounting charge ain't bad at all if it's competently done. You don't say what you're print is.
If it's true high-gloss polyester material, then you need specialized mounting. For paper prints, any "orangepeel" is unlikely to show. Gator is generally fine either
way. One precaution per the preceding post, and putting the print directly into contact with acrylic: don't do it in a high-humidity environment, or for a display on
a poorly insulated perimeter wall, because you won't have a airspace between your print and the glazing. You risk condensation and mildew. Acrylic also bows outward slightly toward heat and light.

[Mark Sampson]

Gatorfoam board is non-archival... don't expect anything you mount on it to last. In a past life I used large amounts of it, but didn't expect the final pieces to last.

[bob carnie]

Gatorfoam board is non-archival... don't expect anything you mount on it to last. In a past life I used large amounts of it, but didn't expect the final pieces to last.

I was about to say that I am not aware of any frame shop worth its salt using gatorboard. It is really nasty stuff.