You don't have to leave the water running... Just fill a tempering bath/water jacket before dev operations (does not have to be oversized/too big), have lunch/dinner while solutions come to temp, process, and dump bath in garden... The tempering bath could just be smaller than a picnic cooler or a deep basin container that holds some chem bottles etc... The sink bath can just be some oversized trays... Just an amount of water that cools, and changes temp slowly...
Steve K
Sounds simple but what i do is mix my dev. (for my 4X5 dev.tanks ) if the temp is too high i put it in the fridge,for awhile,if its too low i put it in a hot water bath for a bit.unless your dev. times are supper dupper long it will hold its temp close enough..my temp for most developers and films is 68.im in iowa ware the water temp changes a lot.
If I understand, you want to chill water for a water bath for develop, stop, and fix. And you want to maintain proper temp long enough for marathon developing.
My first thought is why not get the water bath (and your water for chemicals) down to the required temp with ice or ice bath and bring the ambient temp in your darkroom down to 70 or 72 deg. So I assume getting and keeping the darkroom temp to 72 or so isn't an option. There are portable air conditioners that might help.
Another (but somewhat McGyverish) solution is to use a small freezer or refrigerator (which you have) to chill water to desired temp. Do do this, you'll need a controller like this (there are non-digital versions that should be cheaper). So now you have a 70 deg (for example) environment for your water bath. Now there's 2 options.
- Put a 5-10 gal jug of water in early enough to bring to right temp. Use a small pump to move that water to and from your water bath. I'm guessing the volume of water would be large enough to keep the temp close enough to the desired target. The larger volume of water the better. Feed the water bath from the bottom of the jug and return to the top. This would be my choice.
- Instead of recirculating pump, use the large jug of water as a "jockey box", running your water through copper tubing in the jug to cool the water down. Again, the larger volume of water the better. And the smaller (diameter) of copper tubing the better.
Kirk, I think from the above, the short answer is no. I bought a 32 GPH water-cooled Elkay chiller years ago after the emulsion slid off my 8x10 negatives from too hot a wash temperature. It wasn't cheap, but it works and if and when it dies, you can be certain that I'll buy another one! I've moved it with my last 3 darkrooms. You may be able to find a used water fountain chiller that you can adapt for a lower price, just remember that you will need some type of a control valve to maintain temperature. If you use the "cold" tap as the hot side of the control valve, your chilled water supply will go a lot further than if you use the "hot" tap on the hot side of the valve. Good luck. L
If you develop in trays and standard tanks, not as easy as with a Jobo... Gravity feed an ice chest to the cold water solenoid hose bib. I scavenged an old fridge to do a heat exchanger thing once upon a time, fridge was free
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