Alternative processes for beginners

[Curtis Nelson]

I've got a bug to try something different, and have been admiring some of the work in the Alt Processes thread. My question is, for someone already familiar with LF, what would be a good starting alt. process to learn? Is it possible to rank the different processes in terms of difficulty?

Thanks,

Curtis

[Erik Larsen]

Cyanotype is very simple and can use lower contrast negatives you might already have. Platinum/palladium is simple but you have to tailor your negatives for the process and it is more expensive to learn with. Salt, van dyke and kallitype are simple but require more processing steps than the cyano or pt/pd. Gum prints are pretty simple as well. I would pick a process that you like the look of and just go for it. The best way to learn is jump in and just do it or save yourself some rookie mistakes and take a workshop. You're gonna waste a lot of paper and Chems at first but it'll get easy as you progress. It's a lot of fun!

[bob carnie]

I would say Gum Prints are cool as you can do both colour and BW.

[Wayne]

Solarization, photograms, anthotypes, lumen prints, paper negatives or creative combinations of the preceding are the easiest. I've used lumen prints as paper negatives and solarized the resulting print (or not), for example.

[koraks]

As mentioned, cyanotype is a good place to start. Van Dyke brown is only slightly more difficult and not very costly either. Kallitype is pretty similar to Van Dyke Brown, but a bit more challenging in terms of chemistry and due to the use of ferric oxalate more expensive than VDB.

With Pt/Pd I have no experience, but the processing is comparable in terms of the mechanics to Kallitypes (part of the chemistry is the same as well). I've always found it cost prohibitive though, so I would definitely recommend starting out with one of the cheaper processes to get the basics down.

Gum I have tried but never had much luck with it. It has great potential, but the lack of success in hundreds of test prints from both digital and silver negatives made me give up on it. It's also in a different league than the iron-based processes and Pt/Pd in terms of processing methods.

Carbon transfer is absolutely gorgeous and shares some if its mechanics and chemistry with gum bichromate, but I found it more rewarding. It's also very, very challenging though, so not a very good starting point if you ask me.

There's a couple more processes that could be nice to look into, but I'd suggest starting with one or two of the easier processes. Don't confuse 'easier' with 'less beautiful' though. Both cyanotypes and Van Dyke's (as they come or toned) can be gorgeous.

[karl french]

It's pretty hard to beat Platinum/Palladium for simplicity. There is just not that much too it, in terms of the basic process. No need to worry about fixing, or toning. It's especially suited to those of us who don't have darkrooms.

1. Mix solutions
2. Coat paper
3. Let paper dry
4. Expose paper
5. Develop print
6. Clear print.
7. Wash print.
8. Dry print.

[jp]

Classic cyanotype. inexpensive chemicals. Coat/Dry/expose and rinse in water. If you don't want to buy fancy unbuffered art paper, there are cheap drawing papers and such that work well.

[Curtis Nelson]

Thanks everyone for your great answers. I think I'm leaning toward cyanotype or maybe Van Dyke brown.

[Willie]

Bostick & Sullivan has Ziatype Pt/pd kits that are easy to work with. It is a printing out process so you can use a printing frame that is hinged on the back and open during the exposure to check your exposure.

Easy to do and the images can go from a plum purple to red/brown. A lot of variation makes for enjoyable experimenting.

[Ted R]

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, many if not all these processes employ contact printing from a negative, the size of the print is the size of the negative.