That looks good from here, David. Does it fold and fit ok? What thickness card and material did you use?
Yeah, after pressed for some time, the bellows will take its shape. But I think the corner folding in the algorithm could be improved. I'll have to revisit this some time. Hope your camera will be usable again, but I suspect you'd prefer to take the V11 instead. Enjoy!.
At a glance it appears that your seam-line is longitudinally disposed from front to back down the center axis - many larger bellow's seams have a diagonal bias along the bottom in order to allow for better compression in a closed state - think stacks of paperwork all stapled at the top left resulting in a huge disparity of thickness (at the top left)
Other aspects for all to consider is to always keep the old bellows for reference if available and size the pleats accordingly & do a "test strip" of materials combined (inner layer/stiffener/outer layer along with adhesives) for a sampling of 2 or 3 pleats - measure folded/closed with a micrometer & do the math & see if you are over the threshold of your collapsed camera's state
I will post a new thread soon regarding other old school methods for bellows making along with pics of a set of bellows I made for a Szabad 9x12/4x5 with information I received from the maker's son
Any bellows that work are great so long as they keep the light out & allow for easy movements
Regards
I think I know what you're saying. The corner triangular bits are skewed, the diagonals (hypotenuse) should be equal in length which make the unfolded pleats different depths. This was workable on my first bellows because it has similar front and back frame dimensions, but for something like the banquet formats the triangles become too distorted and probably won't fold well. I've seen templates where these triangular bits are omitted, but they help to give rigidity to the corners. Anyway need to fix this.
The DIY bellows is installed on 11x14 Improved Seneca View Camera.
Very well done David!
Tin Can
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