I've had my 9600 for just over a year now.
When I first got it, I had one problem where the printer would hang intermittently. Epson sent out a rep to my site, the rep replaced some electronics, and since then the thing has chugged along merrily, without even the slightest hiccup. Note that the rep on site visit was under warranty and cost me nothing.
I print primarily on Epson Premium Luster. Despite the claims that you just can't print B&W without using a rip, that's exactly what I do for most of my printing. I looked carefully at the output generated using the colorbyte imageprint rip for black and white and thought that a) the rip looked like a pain in the butt to use, b) the output was no better than what I am getting doing toning using curves, c) my current monochrome workflow allows me considerably more flexibility in toning than the rip does, and d) the rip is priced outrageously (half the cost of my printer!).
I've never had head clog problems. In fact, I think in the space of a year, I've printed nozzle checks perhaps 3 times and found a clogged nozzle; said clog being cleared by running a cleaning cycle.
Good profiling is a must. Atkinson's free profiles for the 7600/9600 and Epson media are excellent. The Atkinson profile for Epson Premium luster produces a dead neutral grey scale on my 9600.
Nothing is hassle-free. Lightjet output is not hassle free. An Epson 9600 is not hassle free - others have noted the issues: bronzing/differential gloss, outgassing from glossy/semigloss/luster media, and metamerism. Those issues are vastly reduced by switching to a matte paper - something I'm in the middle of doing.
On the obvious color issues - color gamut, etc. I simply can't comment cogently.
One simple way for you to see how you feel about the output is to simply get someone to accept a file from you, crank out a print, and send the print to you.
I understand your issues with the smaller consumer level epson printers, but I do feel that the 9600 is fundamentally a different beast, and that you won't see the same problems you saw with the consumer level printers.
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